Sandra777

Yuck, hate dogs licking me. Ours are trained not to, but will lick visitors who let them. Yes, I do kiss them - on the forehead.

If you are concerned about worming her, take a sample to the vet for a fecal count. If she has worms then you can think some more, if she doesn't you don't.

Love weightpull! Hope to get to one in Qld this year (current dog is too young), and get going again with it next year.

To be able to leave the air con running and still lock the car would be lovely - note to Ford Motors!!!!!

A week before mating. But I don't routinely worm, I worm when it is required (fecal count)

AFAIK ANKC registration does not prove ownership - it's the microchip & council registration which has more weight. That said, you need to have included in the contract that the breeder has no rights except as outlined in that contract and that the dog is your property. Marking is a matter of training. If you let the dog pee on everything while you're walking, he will. Humping is also a matter of training. Desexed dogs hump too! (and mark)

Well there's always plenty of laughing when a dog disappears off into the distance, but not derision. Stopping to pee on cones or pylons is always good for a laugh too. They're dogs, as long as they're having fun it's all good!

So the breeder is going to SELL you a dog then continue to own it?? I hope you are getting the pup at a reduced price. Who is going to use this dog - the breeder? Other people? If the breeder wants to breed a single litter from the dog to continue a bloodline I wouldn't have a problem with the arrangement - provided you get a contract stating: Who pays for the genetic testing/x-rays for hips/elbows/eye screening/any other health testing required. I would expect the breeder to do this as none of this really matters to a pet owner. IF you are paying full price for the pup - how much will the stud fee be? At what age will this mating take place (ie age of the dog) - this tells you how long you have to keep the dog entire if you want to neuter him. You will need to ensure that the bitch has live pups before neutering the dog so make sure this is in the contract too - how long afterwards do you have to wait. If your council charges more for an entire dog and you want to neuter the dog, who pays the extra cost to register an entire dog for the period of time the breeder wants him to stay entire. The microchip will be transferred to your name immediately, that the breeder has no rights at all to the dog except as specifically stated in your contract and that the council registration will be in your name. If other people are going to use the dog I would walk away as it can get very complicated. ETA: It's probably simplest if the breeder takes frozen semen from the dog as soon as it can be done, then the dog is signed over. Mind you - if you aren't going to show/trial/race/whatever the dog I would be very suspect about why more than one or perhaps two people would want to/be allowed to use a dog which has never been proven in any field.

For a pet an undescended testicle isn't of much importance as others have said, but "unwell", I would want to know a lot more about this. That said, it is a good thing the breeder is holding on to the pup - a bad breeder would send the pup off regardless than probably blame you for making the puppy sick Talk to the breeder, ask any question you feel you need to ask - this is a life-long commitment you are making and they should care at least as much about your pup as you do! Good on you for thinking before you buy and good luck with the pup :)

Miss the first class and go the following week.

If she is fearful in the dark regardless of where she is, get her examined by a canine eye specialist. It's PROBABLY nothing to be concerned about but we had a bitch who was very fearful in the dark and it turned out she had PHPV (inherited eye condition). I have NO idea about the eye conditions in Dallies so please don't immediately go in to panic-mode, but this is something to consider if she is fearful even in known places and doesn't improve.

:rofl: Sorry - couldn't help it. Sadly, that's how people think isn't it... Why would someone want ONE unsocialised IW, let alone two

http://www.reshareworthy.com/puppies-run-for-dinner-timelapse/ Is it wrong that all I could think was - OMG watch out for their joints....

Bears out that particular research finding that the husky breed came out in the least aggressive to humans group. (But as the researchers noted, there's still variation within the breed, as for any breed.) But babies & tiny children send out totally different signals. So different stimulus to dog. Which is why, generally, across all dogs, the babies & small children are the highest 'at risk' group. Do you have a reference for the arctic breeds being over- represented in serious attacks on them? Or has it been your impression from media accounts? It'd be good if there were stats like that, to show how people can't predict what their dog might do around babies/tiny children .... based on, genuinely, how trustworthy it's always been around humans. Whatever the breed or mix. I think this might be the fatal flaw for many people .... not realizing that there can be a difference. Google Karen Delise and Fatal Dog Attacks.

We use a human one for ours (as well as other exercise and games) I assume from your user name that you have a Doberman? This will definitely make it more difficult to pick up a bargain as you would definitely need a long one. We have Staffords so need a wider one :) As for what size - measure how long your dog is from front of the front feet to the back of the back feet then double it at the VERY least. This is the belt length to be looking for. Width, we have a 40cm one and that's good because it allows them to move from side to side safely. I've always found it pretty easy to teach a dog to use a treadmill, but you need to be patient with some. We have modified ours as it's only for the dogs, by putting a sheet of chip board on both sides to create two walls. There is a bar across the top of these two walls to clip a lead onto so the dog can't get too far forward and put it's foot up on the front of the treadmill (on the housing). I've always found that if they can't reach out fully in front they get very uncomfortable and hate the whole experience - the back end isn't important since when the back foot is out behind the dog it's not on the ground so it's not important if it's still over the belt of the treadmill or "hanging out in midair" so to speak. Start with the treadmill against a wall so there's only one way for the dog to bail. You'll probably do best with two people. Stand the dog on the belt, lots of treats then let him get off. Repeat until he's comfortable with the whole experience. Start the treadmill but only as slow as it will go, feed the dog treats while holding it on the treadmill if you have to (this is where two people come in handy). If the dog starts to walk, even if not very well, I find it easiest to speed up the treadmill straight away (but not more than a quicker walk) so the dog has to think about moving it's feet rather than think about ways to bail out. For the first few days even when the dog is comfortable with the whole idea, only do 20 or 30 seconds to start with as it's easy for them to get distracted, start going backwards and panic. An old greyhound man told me once that if you have a very stubborn dog you can usually get it going on a treadmill by holding the back legs up to start with (arm under the loin), but that may not be all that easy with a big dog.

Exactly what I said when we saw this on the TV this morning - (or will be labelled a pit bull I added under my breath) Arctic breeds are virtually not reported when it comes to serious attacks on people over 2 or 3 years old, but over represented in attacks below this age.

I am looking from the point of view of the breeder/owner in this case and personally I'm not a fan of placing dogs in pet homes when I want to show them. As someone else has already mentioned - going away to shows can be a 5 or 6 day expedition, which is hardly fair on the family (especially when there's children) and not really fair on the dog either as he will no doubt get used to being an only child :laugh: and stress or fuss about being taken away from what he knows. In addition, and this depends on breed of course, even the best pet owners in the world rarely understand what show condition means, which makes it very hard to get the dog into the best shape to be truly competitive. As far as "pet homing" a stud dog, well that's not quite as complex, so long as you very clearly understand how many times the dog will be used, WHERE this will all take place, who gets the stud fee and what happens if the pet owners decide they don't want to keep an entire male any more. Belly82 - you need to confirm how many and what sort of shows the breeder would like to take this dog to. Who is responsible for getting the dog there? How much notice will you get of when he wants to take the dog to a show? Who is responsible for ensuring the dog is in show condition (as mentioned above, this is not something many pet people understand)? Is this a coated breed - that is a mine field all of it's own! If he uses the dog at stud, where will this occur (your place, his place, somewhere else). Who gets the stud fee if it is an outside bitch (this means, not owned by the person you are getting the dog from). If it's his bitch, will he be paying you something for keeping the dog for him so he can use it "for free". I don't mean to make it sound like you are only interested in the money, but if the dog is a from a breed which sells for a fair bit and the current owner uses him two or three times without having to pay for his upkeep and without having to pay any stud fee at all then this is when resentment can set in even for the nicest person. Once or twice would be reasonable to me, more than that not. Honestly, I think the breeder would be better off getting the dog collected (frozen semen) then neutering the dog and selling it to you outright as a pet.

Depends a lot on which half of it's pedigree the pup has taken after (GD x GSP is a bit mind boggling LOL) but personally I don't think so IMO a pup which has the potential be a huge adult, needs to be fed a non-commercial diet designed by a giant breed expert or fed a quality commercial diet intended for giant breed puppies. You only have one chance to get those legs and joints right, and if you get it wrong in a giant breed you have major issues. Pop in to the Great Dane thread, the experts live in there :)

Yes As puppies Yes, except the old girl who sleeps where the hell she pleases! N/A It's not, the dog room is a covered porch outside Not sure how to answer this. They are put in there during the day sometimes for various reasons, and they sleep. They are crated to eat their dinner. So yes, they only use it for eating & sleeping but no, it's not necessarily only at night.

x2 Cost has absolutely nothing to do with the decision

Contact the Bull Terrier club in your state and start from there. They should have a clear and simple explanation of the essential health testing and will probably be able to point you in the direction of a couple of local breeders so you can visit them as a starting point and get the feel for what's available, who you like or don't like, what you need to research more, what lines actually look and act like the dog you want etc etc etc. If you are perfectly clear from the start that you are only looking for the moment any good breeder will be happy to have a chat.

They're puppies - no such thing as neutral ground. I wouldn't worry about it myself. Maybe separate them with a puppy pen or crate until you see how the initial reaction goes from both sides, after that let the games commence :laugh:

Not unreasonable at all. The last kennels we had, the phone went to an answer phone about 1/2 an hour after closing time. The message on the phone very clearly stated the opening hours. Once a week, at the very least!. I'd have someone leave a message that they'd drop Fluffy off at xxx pm the next day, and xxx was always outside the open hours they'd just been told on the answer phone message The previous kennels we had a client who would book in from Saturday morning until Sunday afternoon every single weekend in summer, they went to their apartment at the beach. Three Sunday's in a row they phoned to say their car had broken down and they would be "about an hour late". The first time I let them do it, the second time I charged them for the Sunday night (we charged by the night in those days), the third time I said we were closed and they would have to come on Monday morning. They booked their dog in Saturday am to Monday am for the rest of the summer.

Low level anxiety can manifest in all sorts of silly ways - having a nervous pee would be one of the least damaging :)

Don't beat yourslf up, it's not as easy as an expert can make it look :laugh: Has the breeder of your bitch tried stacking her? Sometimes this can help to pinpoint if it's her not knowing what's required or you not knowing how to get her to understand what's required. Can you get to show training during the week?