tashnchief

LOL it is the Bible for DDB breeders!!!!!

The 'Saga' has been out of print for a number of years now. They will occasionally come up on Ebay but expect to pay big $$$$$$ a friend of mine in the UK had a brand new copy still sealed in it's original plastic she had it up for 600pound it didn't take long for it to sell. I know of another signed copy that sold in the UK for 1000pound. The world bi-annual is a great book, not the same information as the Saga but still a great read and lots of fabulous photographs. The new one will be released around August/September this year covering 2008-2009.

Well done, Nell and I were watching you on Saturday night, we had you guys picked for baby in show. She looked fantastic

www.bullarab.com.au greyhound x bully x gsp - a little later on english pointer and bloodhound were infused in one line. Sorry to hijack the thread.. thanks bigdog. Well at least the information I was given was correct. I know many different combos were used in the beginning.

I know there has been previous threads but I am too lazy to look it up! But very briefly what is the general consensus in the make up of a Bull Arab???????? I know someone who worked very closely with the guy who originally started the 'bull arab' mix. the information I was given was that the original make up of Bull Arabs was greyhound, bull breed( usually anything from Am Staff to Bullmastiff or Dane) pointer or lab. After time it just became a bit fashionable to call larger x-breeds Bull Arabs. I think FranQ's friends dog would very much fit the discription with a bit of ridgie thrown in. Especially given the style of the head, topline and underline.

Not sure if they were the same thing but I was talking to a lady with wolfhounds who's dog had something similar (I think it was the same condition) on the elbows and she said it was best not to drain- too much risk to the joint capsule.... I am sure other big dog owners would be a better expert than me on this though. Don't waste your money draining them. Apply something like " Domoso" roll on anti-inflamatery, you can order it online through 'the vet shed' it's under Greyhound products. Make sure he always has a soft place to lie, encourage him to use it. Most hygroma's will go away of their own accord. I too have heard don't get them drained for damaging the joint capsule, will only grow straight back then as well as potential other probs. My guys have had hygroma's and all of healed on their own with just what I have done above. I have also found that after a course of anti-inflam's like Metacam or Rymadol ( for another issue) the hygroma healed shortly after. Definitely looks to have some ridgie in there, my guess would be Bull Arab/ridgie cross.

Abrham Ali Angus Apollo(different spelling!) Appollo Archie Arkhan Armand Arq Ashke Atlas Bailey x 4 Balou Bandit Banjo Bardigrub Bart Barton Baxter Bear x2 Bender Ben Benji Benny Benson Billy Bing Bluey Bomber Bosch Bosco Boxer Brady Brian Custard O'Doggle Brock Brockie Brody Bronson x2 Bruce Bud Bundyx2 Buster Cannon Caramel Carl Casper Champ Charlie x 5 Chevy Chief Chip x 2 Chok Clifford Coco Cooper x3 Cory Cowan x 2 Cowboy Cuba Danny Darcy x 2 Dashx2 Deakin Dean Declan Delgado Dennys Dog Diablo Diesel x2 Digby Digger Dinky Douglas Dumas Dylan Ebon Eddie Elijah Elliott Edge Esky Fergus x 2 Fox FlashBazil Fleming Fletcher Flynn Frank Fudge Gandor Geo George Greedy Guiness mcGuinness Hail Harley Harrison Harry Henry Hudson Hugo Ivan Jack x 3 Jake x 2 Jasper x 2 James JayDee Jethro Jet Jett Jordan Joshua Judd Juggie Kahn Kaiser x 2 Kasper Kaos Kiba Kei Kippy Kisho Kyzer Leo Lincoln Lenny Leroy Lestat Logan Luca Ludwig Lughie Lukas Lukon MacKenzie Mason Max x 4 Maxie Maxwell THE DOG Mel Merlot Merry Milky Milosh Milton Minook Mistral Mokha Morris Mr Darcy Nammu Napoleon Nelsson (yes two s's) Nigel Noah Nova Nudge Nugget Onslow Oscar Oz Payton Pete Phoenix Piikki Porsha Punch Quick Raffy Ralph Randy Reeve Reagan Rex Ricky Riku Riley Ripley River Rocks Rolly Rory Rove Rover Roy Jones Jnr Rupert Rusty Sam Scout Scrap Scratch Shadow Seth Silas Snitch Sonny Soul Spartan Speed Spencer Spike Sport Spud Sterling Stig (The) Storm Stryker Sumo Swanky Tazz x 2 Teddy Tey Dog Thunder Tiger Tirra Toby x2 Tolkien Tommy Tub Tusca Tye x2 Tyson Udo Ulf Valdez Wags Walker Watson Weave Whisky Willow Willy Wilson Woody Yoshi Zac Zedley Zeppelin Zephyr x 2 Zeus Zuma

You can't get out of the country with pets without dealing with AQIS - they provide all the export documentation. To get to the USA there are no export requirements however it is recommended you get them vaccinated for rabies. It takes 21 days for a rabies shot to become effective. Should you ever wish to return to Australia you will need your pets to have rabies vaccinations and a rabies titre test. Animals can travel 6 months after the RNATT (titre test). ETA - tashnchief, you obviously don't contact the Sydney office AQIS is open tomorrow (31st) and then closed until the 4th. LOL No Poocow, my experience was with Melbourne and Canberra. I have heard very good things about Sydney Aqis, unfortunately I wasn't able to deal with them in this situation, things may have been different otherwise! The end result was ok someone obviously found their christmas spirit!!! But not before they put me through a world of stress due to a massive mistake on their behalf

Sorry je33ie but I doubt that info is correct. Australia is a Rabies free country going into the US which is a Rabies controlled country so therefore the entry conditions are a lot more relaxed. Australia is probably the hardest place in the world to get live animal entry into but young pups etc are shipped out of Aust to Europe and the US with little hassle. However, if you choose to return the animals to Australia you will be met with our strict import requirements which means that they have to undergo all of the Rabies Titre testing, there is also a required timeframe that the dog resides in the country after this testing and pass other blood testing before it can return to Aust. Where the animal will still have to undergo the compulsory 30days in an Australian quarantine facility.

Aqis probably isn't much help to you as you are exporting not importing......I would say Aqis are probably closed for the holidays so don't expect a response. ( they can be slack at the best of times and I have had one of the worst experiences with them in the last 10days but that's a whole other story ). You need to search for US quarantine/customs government department to find the information you need. You could also try contacting agents like Dogtainers or Jetpets, they should be able to help provide you with the entry requirements for the US as well as give you shipping quotes. I haven't shipped animals from or to the US only frozen semen but I am sure someone else who has imported from there may be able to recommend US based shipping companies for comparative quotes.

Agreed, this is correct. Natural, chilled or frozen makes no difference it is the egg that is the determining factor not the insemination. If you know via Prog test the exact day of ovulation than it is easy to track when your bitch is due. Here's what makes frozen AI different (from an excellent piece on K9 reproduction . . . ", insemination with frozen-thawed semen is best performed 3-4 days following the LH surge (2-3 days following ovulation)." I had it wrong above in saying the AI was done at ovulation. Yep "mating" occurs 2 or 3 days after ovulation so if the bitch whelps 59 or 60 days from mating she has whelped 62 or 63 days from ovulation. The method of delivering the sperm to the jobsite is irrelevant. Only done frozen semen AI once (transcervical) and she was booked for a caesar 60 days after her first insemination (as she only had one pup). Exactly......forget about when the mating or insemination is done, if you know the exact date of ovulation you count 63 days from then. A lot of people use 63days from mating when they do natural matings because you are really only guessing when ovulation has occurred, therefore many find that their bitches whelp early or much later! The egg itself begins the 'timeframe' from when it is ovulated or released, as we know it then begins to mature. Some will go on to be fertilised, others won't.

Awwww congrats....that's a pretty good suprise!

Agreed, this is correct. Natural, chilled or frozen makes no difference it is the egg that is the determining factor not the insemination. If you know via Prog test the exact day of ovulation than it is easy to track when your bitch is due.

That's a real shame It happens in many breeds the world over, I breed Dogues and the popularity of this breed with BYB's is also putting our breed in trouble. Not for aggression but our breed is losing correct type at a rapid rate, there is also more Dogues that need rescuing and falling into the wrong hands, the high price tag that our breed fetches is so alluring to byb's. Benshiva, I imagine that it was probably Valdor that you are refering to.....what a teddy bear Tohko is maturing very nicely :D .....is he a Laksman son?

They are fantastic dogs, I have see many at the home of the original and only importer of the breed in Sydney. They are even more impressive in person then in photos. Check out www.ataraxia.ozehosting.com their webpage is about 12-18mths out of date though! Craig has amazing knowledge of the breed and dogs in general, he is very highly respected amoung the Boerboel community world wide.

Dogue De Bordeaux have really good natural guarding instinct afterall it is part of their history. I think you will need to consider the bigger picture though....if you bring in another dog for your own peace of minds sake, will this new dog fit into your family and fit in with your current dog?

i think you are on the right track however the basis for me would be start with the breed standard, don't just read it and memorise it but actually understand it, understand the breeds history, what were they bred for. The hypothetical you have used for example is very generalised, if you had not mentioned the breed of your example then you could actually be refering to any number of breeds or cross breeds. Narrow it down - what are the hallmarks of your chosen breed that distinguishes itself from any other breed? length:height ratio, head planes, ear set, eye set, eye colour, bite, shoulder construction, rear construction, topline - should it be level, straight, sloping, concave, convex, underline, what type of movement, markings, temperament etc?????????? Does your female have strengths and weakness of these hallmarks? How does the stud dogs choices match up to your girls strengths and weaknesses? What strengths, weaknesses, health, temperament is behind each of these dogs? Look at the average of that chosen bloodline? If the average is poor rear ends even if the dog himself has a great one then there is a good chance that those poor rears will still come through. Talk to your breeder, pick there brains about everything they know about the generations behind your girl. Talk to other breeders about there bloodlines both here and overseas. It is an endless learning curve and even the best laid plans can turn out disasterous. It sounds like your intentions are good, enjoy showing and make the most of learning not only about your breed but dogs anatomy and physiology in general.

Great news and wishing you all the best from here on in...

thinking of you and diesel...sending best wishes for good news on Monday.

I have just found this thread. I wanted to send best wishes to you. Keep us posted.

I hope something comes up on the faecal sample. Sounds like this probably isn't food related something more like Coccidia ( as has been mentioned ) Gardia or hook worm presents with similar symptoms. I hope they can find the answer and clear it up soon.

I second the listerine! It's fantastic will dry it up within days. My vet also prescribed Neocort but said honestly it will probably just keep it moist and that isn't really the effect you want...she told me to use listerine. The listerine dries it out and the alcohol kills the bacteria. Clip the area if you can as well.

Thank you both, this helps me get an idea of what we are facing .

Thanks Sheriden and Tkay. I had assumed that it may not be as easy as looking at the protien content but it seems that way at face value. I phoned a local vet yesterday that I knew stocked Hills and I/D prescription, thinking this was probably the avenue that the specialist vet will steer us. Well the vet nurse was not entirely helpful and didn't know of any 'Kidney issue' specific formula in either of these brands nor something that was low protien??? It will be interesting to hear what the specialist recommends. We swapped his mince to a little chicken mince with his kibble.

The dog belongs to my father and has just come home after a 3 wk stay at the specialist emergancy care. He had septacemea ( spelling????) and it has left his kidney's not not such great shape ( after mega bucks later... and the fact that we are all amazed he has even survived the ordeal). Whether the septacemea is a result of an initial infection of the kidneys or a not we will never know. The specialist vet has recommended a 'low protien diet' but doesn't want to start anything until he goes back for further blood work in a fortnight. So just trying to do a little research and get an idea of what the 'low protien diet' might entail. So just looking for personal experiences in creating or monitoring a careful diet for dogs with kidney issues.