arby

My boy taz gets a big red belly rash, thats grass related. Could be an environmental allergy

Hey koolietas We have the same problem with out boxer Humphrey. Huge pimple like rash along his muzzle and chin, not so bad now though. Definately ditch the plastic containers, we use a mix of stainless steel and ceramic. Also add some apple cider vinegar (the cloudy low processed ones) to the water, it helps clean up the muzzle and kills some of the bacteria. ACV works a treat, you can also add a little to the food.

all sounds like what our boxer is going through...good old yeast infection... use a earcleaning solution for the ears. Vet can advise you on best on. Basically squirt a bit in the ear cannal, massage it around a bit. In 10 minutes or so it does magic. Basically solution helps dissolve all the ear wax and the dog shakes it out. We had to do that followed by antibiotics specific for yeast ear infections in dogs. Best of all the antibiotics and solution last for quite a bit (in right conditions), vet told us next time we have that problems just to do the routine again. Here's a few tips to avoid or help clear up yeast infections *cut out grains and cereals from the diet (partially for when the dogs are fine, fully when ears infected) *add apple cider vinegar to the food, water (the cloudy organic type from health food or pet stores not supermarket) *keep the ears dry, use ear cleaning solution once a week to stop wax build up

plenty of good dog shampoos out there for getting your dog "whiter then white" and the like.

Hey, when Humphrey was a pup he went really well with the raw minced chicken roll...Chicken, bones and all put through a mincer. As for chewing and teeth cleaning I'd get those dental kongs they're pretty good.

Humphrey has been on BARF all his life...it can be very easy and inexpensive once you get the hang of it. I usually do huge batches of raw fruit and veg mix, just all blended up in a food processor (makes life sooooo easy) freeze that in small plastic bags. Then I do some veg mix with cooked rice and gravy (once again freeze that). Then theres fresh mince. We now buy 10kgs bags. Once again, put in smaller containers and freeze. Then its a matter of pick and mix. heres some combos that worked *veg meat and grains *veg, egg, meat *meat egg sardines. Only additives we add is apple cider vinegar. Everything else is in your kitchen pantry Ways to save money on BARF *buy in bulk, make everything in bulk *chinese produce stores sell big packs of take away container, around my area we can get approx 50 containers for $7!!! Makes storage easier. *find a good butcher or pet produce supplier, supermarket meat will end up costing a fortune *use seasonal fruit and veg. ALso use the ones in your fridge that are looking a bit sorry for themselves, as long as no mould or spoilage you can use. The advantage of BARF over Eagle pack and other dry food is you know exactly what is going into your dogs food, you can eliminate stuff easier. These days it takes about 2 hours a month for me to prepare everything

Make sure you feed the sardines in oil, the ones with tomato sauce and brine can cause some problems

With Taz our mutt we took him down to 1 meal a day by around 18 months... basically when he reached maturity and stopped growing. He still gets snacks like meaty bones during the day and gets his meal in the early evening.

phenergan is indeed some seriously strong stuff, I'd use it with caution I know a few humans that get hallucinations from it

As others have said you have to control the eating and drinking. If the dog gets into a routine the guts will empty pretty much on time. Also any accidents in the house have to be cleaned properly so no trace is left. Is the boy desexed??? Boys can tend to start marking and if that happens, crating at night is the best idea, and you seriously have to bleach/scrub when he does pee since he will remark same spots if thats a problem

This is from a dog first aid book i have 1. NAME 2. FORMULATION 3. DOSAGE 1. POLARAMINE (dexchlorhenrinamine) 2. 2mg and 6mg tablets also 0.4mg/ml elixir 3. dogs <10kg give 2mg dogs 10.1-30kg give 4mg dogs over 30kg give 6mg 1. PHENERGAN (promethazine) 2. 10mg and 25mg tablets 1mg/ml elixir 3. 1mg per 10kg of bodyweight 1. TELFAST (fexofenadine) 2. 60mg, 120mg and 180mg tablets 3. 2mg per kg bodyweight NOTE:TABLET SIZE MAKES DOSING FOR SMALL DOGS IMPOSSIBLE 1. CLARYTYNE (Ioratadine) 2. 10mg tablets (also comes in a elixir now not sure of stregth just yet!) 3. for dogs less then 20kg give 1/2 tablet for dogs over 20kgs give 1 tablet 1. ZYRTEC (Cetirizne) 2. 10mg tablets and 1mg/ml and 10mg/ml elixirs 3. for dogs up tp 20kgs give 5mg for dogs over 20kgs give 10mg

Hey bub I'll try to find the thread i posted on here months ago, it actually has the recommended dosage for dogs of typical antihistamines

I guess it depends on breed and eating habit. Humphrey the boxer gets 2 a day..he's super skinny Taz the lab X mutt gets 1 a day...but he's also fat lol both get bones and occasional treats during the day

Have you tried the medicated shampoos like quit itch and malaseb??? They can help with itchy skin Have you tried the elimination method in her diet??? Grains, preservatives, certain byproducts can cause reactions. Also type of grass you have etc.

my boys do the same when they were super excited younger dogs They semi grew out of it. Its all about training, basically we had to find a way to distract them a bit before they get peeing everywhere.

totally agree. If you want a good way to kill things from clothing and bedding. Heres what to do (this is coming from my microbiology asceptic techniques hehe) 1. soak the bedding in bleach 2. wash with canestane in wash liquid 3. Dry in the sun 4. steam iron the combination of all things kills of everything in the material

portion size depends on size of your dog. we have a lab X and he gets probably 3 cups left overs a day.

ringworm is a fungus so you should get some anti fungal stuff like canestan (sp?). Treat both the dog and cat. Also this stuff spreads to humans as well so you might have to treat other family for it as well. As soon as you see the red rashy thing use the cream. Now. Here's the other thing to remember. Once the ringworm is gone visibly you need to continue treatment. The fungus remains for a week or two after you stop seeing it. If you dont continue the treatment it will come back, and it will get nasty. ps. I had this problem with my rodents and my dogs in the past. OF course stupid rash came onto my arm. took like a month to get rid of it!

pandii i can totally relate. Taz our mutt has been raised on left overs, the occasional tin or dry dog food, and raw meaty bones. He loves it all. He's 9yo and plenty of life left in him.

left overs are fine as long as you avoid: *onions *cooked bones *lots of fatty or spicy food

my bf seen a double leg corking...theres a JR and a Blue heeler where he works. Stump the heeler corked his leg on a tree. Jack the JR decided he can top that...he put one back foot up on the tree, then kind of reversed and put the other back foot up on the tree and proceeded to mark it...while doing a handstand

glad to see your boy is doing better :p

my mutt never lifts. He's 9. Maybe its the whole desexing thing and no need to "mark" the territory.

We use the home brand in oil ones too. Humphrey loves them. We mix it in with his mince. He doesnt seem to get sardine breath. Veggie oil is actually good in small amount for dogs. We add a splash to the BARF mix once or twice a week. It seems to make our boxers coat very shinny. As with everything else its all about moderation. We feed a can or 2 a week of the sardines. Usually I do a can of the sardines, 1 egg and a splash of apple cider vinegar mixed with some raw meat. Humphrey just scuffs it down.

Along with the curash or similar, I would also use quit itch lotion on it. First wash the area with an iodine based lotion like quit itch or betadine. That kills off any bacteria. Then you can use thinks like the curash powder to help dry out the area.