SibesOnly

I'm glad this worked for you Sibes but it's not a method I'd recommend to most people. Do it to the wrong dog and you'll get bitten. Some dogs simply won't tolerate being pushed around. Don't confuse physical dominance with social dominance - there IS a difference. I reckon we've got the bigger brain for a reason. You can learn to be dominant without ever having to get into a physical contest with a dog. BTW, Dr Harry ain't a behaviouralist. I see some of his recommendations for behaviour modification and just shudder. Hi poodlefan, thanks for your comments, wasn't trying to say Dr Harry was anything special. The point I was trying to make is there are a few suggestions on this thread. Lets try a few first before we rush out to the behaviouralist. I made a suggestion which has worked for my boys, and for a few friends just as I'm sure other people offering suggestions have had successes with their methods. The method is actually offering an alternate bahaviour (sitting) and rewarding that bahaviour, rather than leaving the dog to jump or hump - after all he is just self rewarding. The issue of man-handling was a side issue to assert dominance quickly in a distracted and opportunistic environment - you can take it or leave it. Brett

hi mate, I have two sibes and had to deal with this problem with both of them. Firstly make sure he listen's to you, and you are the boss. A husky who thinks that he is the boss is a nightmare. I just had a friend come over (becasue they had learnt this behaviour was not acceptable with me or my wife already and only did it to visitors) a couple of times when the boys would either jump or do anything silly. When the dogs would start doing something I'd give them a gruff 'NO!!' to get them to stop. A couple of times i had to man-handle the boys to the ground to assert my dominance. when they ceased the bahaviour I asked the to sit and then the visitor would give them a treat. Now when we have visitors come over they rush to them and sit in front of them, the visitor gives them a friendly pat (which rewards the sitting and reinforces that this is appropriate behaviour). I avoid at all costs locking the dogs away when we have visitors, as I don't want that routine to become the norm. I want both my boys to be pleasurable around visitors, they are after all part of the family. NB when I say 'man handling' - that is just it, no hitting etc, just force the dog to the ground so I am in a position over the top of him. If that, or some similar techniques don't work then sure get the bahavoualist in, but lets not have Dr Harry over just yet without trying a few things. Hope this helps, Brett

I have two cut down star pickets and a chain between them with two chain lines coming off for each dog. But since you have one dog the tow point of your car should be fine (make sure its a tow/recovery point - don't use a bull bar ... that will just end up in tears), just have a chain or something sturdy to connect to it and make sure he can't hurt himself on the car if he gets excited. If you want to spend money try Xpress Outfitters but just bring something sturdy for your first day, to keep your dog and the other dogs safe. yay theres one new person for winter - any others???? Brett

Pfft - don't wory about the vocal thing. Have you seen what happens when you have about 20-30 sled dogs tethered in resonably close proximity? Come out for a look and bring your dog. Bring a tie down line or something to secure him - a lead around a tree won't cut it, and let him bark etc at the other dogs. I look forward to seeing you come winter. Just drop me an email and remind me we spoke here and we'll sort you out. Brett

Hi mooper, Sure everyone is welcome. There is plenty of experience at the club to help you get going, the only problems you may have is fitting a harness as they tend to be made for mals/huskies. But when it gets a bit closer to the season, email me [email protected] and I'll happily meet you out there and well arrange some gear/advice/tips etc to get you started. That offer goes for anyone else in ACT area. The web page tells you what you need to bring. Please don't forget poo bags, we have to take care of the forrest OH - only real health restriction is age some say 7 months minimum, I tend to err on the side of caution and say wait till the growth plates have fully developed (about 12-14 months), unless of course there is some pre-existing condition then speak to your vet. Brett

In Australia? could you PM me the link? If its to ban the Iditarod - that would be PETA. They believe some Mushers don't treat their dogs humanly during the training etc. I think that campaign should really be directed at individual trainers, rather than the race itself. As the race certainly doesn't condone that sort of behaviour and every precaution is taken to ensure the dogs health and well being. Vets checkpoints, constant health checks etc etc. However if it is in Australia I would be very keen to take a look - are they trying to ban Labs from fetching tennis balls as well? thanks, Brett

The Siberian Husky Club of NSW runs sledding activities in NSW. There are a couple of other clubs I believe as well. Brett

Well there is only 50 Days to go until the Iditarod Sled Dog Race. There is a mile of information on the Official Web Page Iditarod as they count down to the last great race in Alaska. Of course for you new Siberian/Malamute owners out there if you would like to know about how you can get involved locally contact your local sledding club. If you are in or near to the ACT and would like to come along and see what the fun is all about, feel free to PM me here or visit our web page Canberra Sled Dog Club. Training starts around April, depending on temperature. We don't do the distances you will see in the Iditarod, but we do have fun on a cold Canberra Saturday morning, and the Dogs love it! Brett

I have 2 major acheivements this year: 1. Convincing my wife that we needed another Sibe. 2. Convincing my wife that since we had two dogs, we NEEDED a new scooter, harnesses, tow lines, etc etc Brett

Miranda: Yes there is the potential for this, guess its up to how much you trust your vet. Mine supplies Hills but his recommendations were 'brand neutral'. He has even gone on to explain the subtle differences between the brands. My vet gets enough money out of me without needing to try to stitch me up for dog food as well But I generally agree with your comments on vet biase. I guess what I was trying to say was that your vet will have an appreciation for the current health of your dog, any history of weight problems, blah blah blah. Of course if he happens to recommend the brand he stocks in his front office then you may want to be cautious.

Hi Adz, I just replied to a similar thread a brought up a point regarding activity levels and fat content which you may like to take a look at. I believe the general consensus is that the premium brands are designed to be a 'total diet'. I'd love to feed my dogs a 'barf' diet, but I just don't have the time. So a premium brand is great - its also very easy to manage weight effectively. So i find a premium brand and a few raw meaty bones (to keep their teeth in tip top shape) for us working types works well. BTW nutrition is something that i think is important for my dogs, so I always chat with my vet about it whever I'm there. have a chat with the vet next time you are there for shots/check up etc.

Sheesh - I didn't really check prices - have just seen these guys at the pet expo. Post your US page, I'll bookmark it as well! I get my sledding harness etc from Xpress Outfitters, they import US sledding gear, they may want a peice of the action and they price their gear very resonably.

If you want the palisade packs etc but dont want to pay in USD or too much in postage try these guys in ACT www.maadiipets.com.au