dasha

You could always contact the Working Kelpie Council to look for litters or breeders details. Jerralong used to advertise in the LAND newspaper regularly. If not, try asking the Walkers for the details. A lot of working dog people don't have websites and stuff. Their dogs advertise themselves so they can be hard to look up if you don't know who or where to ask.

By George it is.

Kavik, in my experience with working dog breeders, they sell WORKING dogs. Most of them would have NO idea of ideal traits for a high level SPORTS dog. You say you want an outgoing dog that wants to play all day etc, they picture the crazy one on the chain that they won't let off much as it drives them mad. But is not necessarily the right energy that you want for a sports dog. That one can't focus, is hard to teach etc The breed good yard dog male to good yard dog female and then hopefully produce good yard dog puppies. Then its up to the trainer to bring out the best or worst in those dogs. In my experience, a lot of yard specific dogs are a little independant and headstrong as they need to be tough. THey NEED to put up with the handler yelling and loud noises of stock moving through metal yards banging and clanging. THey need to cope a headbutt or trampling by sheep and not let it put them off. Then there is the paddock type dog, a lot quieter, sensitive and less busy (hopefully). These traits suit the paddock type work as they are often moving larger mobs, need to keep their distance. They also need to be more sensible and read their stock very well. They are more sensitive to the body language of the sheep and often the handler. They see the sheep get restless, they should back off a little to take pressure off. They need to be soft and quiet to move ewes with little lambs so that they don't mismother when being moved by a busier bully dog that causes chaos. You may find this type of dog a little too soft for working close to a handler under pressure. Obviously this is a very generalised response but things you need to be aware of. I have a yard style dog and she was good for agility, very bold, fast, brave....... but bloody hard headed. If there was an obstacle she wanted to do, by golly you had to yell at her to call her off. She is tough. I also have a paddock type dog. Easier to train as she is not a busy energy, took on board the lesson, but was reluctant to work close and very sensitive to my body language, voice and feelings. So had a lot of potential, but a lot of things also potentially worked against her. I do think if the genetics parent are what you like, the genetics in the pups will be there so essentially any pup in the litter would be fine. There of course would be minor variations but if the core traits are what you want, then it is purely the upbringing and training of the owner that gets the end result.

Like I said, THIS particular product has no concerns for import. You can refer to ICON on the DAFF website to confirm. If you search for Homeopathic remedies for HUMAN CONSUMPTION you will find that as long as it is for personal use, less than 3 months supply, you will not need and import permit. They may be inspected but will be released. There is NO QUARANTINE CONCERN for these items and customs will not be interested in them either if imported by individuals for use. Persephone, you seem to have sensible grasp on the idea, maybe you should get a job with DAFF

I am in Sydney and have a giant vari kennel you can have if you want it. Not sure where you live though.

I am familiar with Saxon K9. 16 years experience of dog training with Australian Customs, Australian Federal Police dog handler trainer. Takes a holistic approach to training and uses positive reinforcement methods. Is also based over near the beaches so will be a lot closer for follow up training etc.

Well you need to pick a breed that is suitable to work as a team. One that is biddable, got suitable drive for play and pack, and has a sound temperament. Then within the breed you pick, you need to make sure you get the lines that will suit what you want. Don't pick a line of hard headed independant dogs if you want a nice biddable team worker. I think if you have picked the lines correctly, and a good breeder, you should be able to pick ANY pup from the litter and be happy with your purchase. Put your hand in the pen, pick it up and buy it. Unless of course then colour or marking preferences, sex preference etc comes into it.

Saxon K9. They are on Northern Beaches and are very good.

Each individual item is mailed as individuals. It comes along a conveyor belt and x-rayed and or sniffed. They aren't unloaded as bulk consignments from different sellers. A lot may come at once as they come from the same country but a whole shipment will not be destroyed without a proper inspection. That is giving bad information and if thats what your AQIS friend has told you, they need to look into it a bit more before they tell you stuff. Only PROHIBITED ITEMS are legally able to be destroyed and notice is given to the consignee. The main things to be destroyed without permission is fresh plant/fruit/vege, perishable items that are not shelf stable for 30 days or high risk items. All other things may be held and the option of Return to Sender, destroy or treatment options given if a treatment is available. The ingredients in these lozenges are EXTRACTS. In ICON you looked for Arnica Montana and the conditions in that apply to Arnica Montana imported as DRIED PALNT MATERIAL, not a processed product. If they were lozenges for animals, they would need an import permit. For PERSONAL consignments for humans, these would not be stopped. They may very well be inspected but SHOULD be released if the staff know their stuff. By looking at your user name, I would think you are a pet supply company so if you are importing stuff, you have different conditions to go buy as you are a COMMERCIAL IMPORTER. This is different to to a personal importer

If they are stopped, ask on what grounds. They would come under lollies

Africa is still the longest. The reason is that Rabies has such a long possible incubation (180 days) and so thats why they need to wait so long. Total Quarantine time from current countries is also dependent on the level of Rabies Control in that country. As Africa has active Rabies with very little prevention, it means the animals must be isolated from other animals for that long to ensure they don't get it. Eastern Creek allow dogs to exercise after 1 week to allow for vet check, vet paperwork audits etc

PNG dogs do 60 days so I don't think thats enticing. Testing can't be relied on by overseas all the time. You would be surprised how many dogs arrive with incorrect blood tests that require further testing, incorrect tick preventions at incorrect intervals, wrong test results, microchip problems, arrive full of ticks and require further testing. There is even a number of dogs that are directed for re-export to re do testing before coming back. So there are VERY VALID reasons for animals doing Quarantine. The majority of pet owners probably wouldn't give 2 hoots about it as they feel it wouldn't affect them. It isn't $ grabbing by any stretch!!!! It is a cost recovery system, a not for profit organisation, so costs are really determined by costs involved. It won't really help pups either as they still will need to be a certain age before coming or they will have to make up 180 days from RNATT anyway. So currently instead of coming at 150 days to do the last 30 in quarantine, they prob won't be eligible to arrive before 180 days from RNATT to be eligible for the min quarantine period

Linda, at Eastern Creek it is one dog in the grooming room or out for exercise at a time from each row. This means there is no chance of them coming into contact with any other dog. The next dog due out into the yard is not allowed out until the previous one is locked back inside its kennel. If there is any doubt regarding the health status of the dogs, they are not allowed out of the kennel. And they are not allowed until after 1 week of being there to allow time for their vet paperwork is audited and multiple tick searches are done. Once they are clear, exercise appts can be made. If the pre export checks are in any way incorrect or wrong tick treatment/worming done, they are not allowed out until further testing is done. Some incorrect tests or results can mean the dog is re-exported or euthanised (at owners request) Cats the same.\. Only 1 allowed out in grooming room at a time. Even if there is more Quarantine staff around. No animals (except from the same family) are allowed to come in contact with any other animal. As for the cat with mats, it is pretty bad. A lot of cats hide in their igloos A LOT so they may not have seen it if the cat hides all the time. Ideally they get a weekly groom but I am not sure of staffing levels at other stations and how much extra time the can afford each individual cat.

Linda K the reason you don't get told to change anything is because the diseases they are quarantined for cannot be taken out on you as such. Cats are mainly quarantined for Rabies and a general health check. You can'T take rabies home on your shirt or hands or shoes. The attendants groom the cats during their stay. Imagine every owner that came wanted to take their cat to a common room to groom, it means the staff can't do any other jobs in there til the cat and owner are gone. Multiply that by say 20 owners and when would they get to do any work.

I am also getting quotes for fencing for our 5 acres at present. Is is expensive. The cost go up considerably once you have timber rails as well. Timber is expensive and there can often be a wait for it too. Thats what the fencing guys told us. I have opted for the rabbit wire that is about 4 ft high then 1-2 plain strands on top. This helps to be able tension the fence as well. I didn't want the high ones as at least the 4ft one, you could probably climb between the mesh and wire if in a hurry. If the fences are too high, then you have to ALWAYS go to the gate to be sure to place your gates in a convenient place for both pedestrian and car access. I am already thinking I am going to get annoyed at the new fencing because I am currently used to walking out and getting through wherever I want. I can hop between paddocks, across to neighbours etc with no problem. Providing I turn the power off to the current fence. I hate it when I forgot it is on!!!!! I like the hinged wire (dog fence, pig fence) but I have sheep and horses. That kind of wire is no good for horses as it is a good size for them to put a hoof though then get it stuck. It is also a bit of a problem for sheep if they have horns. They can push their heads through but the horns stop them getting it out again. I have a bit of it around my roundyard to and I have come home many times to find a sheep has been stuck in the fence all day. Dogs can also put heads through and some smaller ones will wiggle through. We got a quote from "IRONBARK FENCING" very nice guy and easy to deal with and also another guy.

Also very important..... don't try each suggestion at once. Pick one you like and stick with it for a number of weeks before you change something. Consistency is the key. Don't try one persons suggestion today and another tomorrow. If you do you will be posting on here in 6 months asking how to train a recall in an adult poodle that has a lot of history of getting his way. In training, only change one element at a time. So for example you have been practising a recall in the park with a long lead on but only when there is just you and your other dog, don't take the long lead off when there are heaps of exciting distractions. Aim for distance or distraction only. 1 at a time. Then work on the other, then both together.

I think in this case, being a poodle, excuses of why some breed are harder than others isn't really helpful. Poodles are highly intelligent, and providing it has 2 ears that work, and a trainer that is consistant, then it doesn't really matter whether a beagle or border collie is easier. Beagle have a scenting instinct, BC have a working instinct, they don;t have a willingness to walk next to you with a paddock full of sheep unless you train it. And a beagle is no good to anyone if you can't train it to ignore scents until you ask. It goes for any breed that has an instinctive working function. Its about command over instinct EVERY TIME. So as a poodle is very smart and he is young and exuberant, it would be best as some have suggested, to remove him from the highly distracting surroundings untill he understands the command. Then you may progress to asking for it with 1 uninteresting dog around and gradually increase his reward history on the recall with small distractions then increase it to bigger ones. The most important thing is that if the command is said, the behaviour MUST follow every time. This is either willingly or not. The dog needs to learn that when that word is said, the only predictable thing is that he is going to do it.Lie Vickie said, sometimes you have to invest a lot of time and effort into something that its really hard or if they try it on a couple of times. You need to set him up to PASS in order to make the behaviour predictable. Then increase the difficulty. You may need a long lead on him to be able to make the behaviour happen once he gets more room around him. Don't be at this level too long or he will get lead wise and know EXACTLY how far he can go on the lead and then once the lead is off, he may work out the distance that he can then make a runner. Remember Poodles are smart. EVERY time he comes back you need to reward him with something he loves, it may be a toy, or food. Whatever HE values most at this stage. You could even try feeding him his entire food intake from your hands for doing something. If at the end of the day there is still a bit more left, do a recall and give him the remainder of it. Practice in different areas of the house. Don't just feed in the kitchen or wherever. Make him think that wherever you are and you call him, there is something special for him. Once he is coming every time, then you start to reduce the rewards but still need to make a fuss of him. Remember not to make the recall at the park be the end of his play time or he soon won't recall. Call him and reward him then release him again to go play. He should be a pleasure to train being a very smart breed.

I think try all the things suggested. For what its worth though my opinion is that initially to train the behaviour you have to set it up to happen so he can get the reward... like what has been suggested. I also believe that there is a point at which the dog MUST come because you said so, not because it wants a treat. Some dogs get smart and think the game is better than the food, or whatever they are chasing is more fun etc. This is what I do and some may or may not agree but......... Once I know the dog knows what the recall command is, if he ever choses to ignore it, I will march over there and do what I need to do to get his attention in a very firm manner and make him come to me. SOmetimes you have to block his access to whatever it is he wants. Do whatever I have to to make my dog disengage from what he wanted to do to what I asked. I NEED a recall on my dogs as does anyone else. You can enjoy your walks a lot more knowing you can recall in any situation. Mine are working border collies with very strong working instinct. They are not much older than your dog. Tonight I had 5 of them running in the paddock and I was doing something else. I heard a lot of running and went out to see what was going on and the sheep has escaped from their yard and the dogs were bringing them back in all directions. I was able to recall all of them off (Which I was very happy with) and considering there was a lot of commotion and they were as a pack, it was very good of them. My dogs do not get food treats for a recall once they know it, I do ocassionally give them as a surprise , but not as a rule. They need to come because they were told. Sounds harsh but it really could save their life one day.

Very sorry to hear of Baileys plight. Sad loss for his family. Sorry you had to experience this sadness in such a short time form getting him.

Maybe he is microchipped and the owner has been contacted and they are going to come and collect him. Why do people assume the worst all the time. Maybe the dog attacked a neighbours kid or something so its not going to be rehomed. What you see sitting in a kennel isn't always the dog you bring home.

Mine swallow chicken necks and wings whole. So they don't get them. Apart from a choking hazard when eaten like that, they aren't getting any benefit for their teeth. So they get lamb flaps, (whole or halves) lamb necks, lamb spines, chicken carcasses, beef briskets, beef bones and they eat them and chew them. Like pers said, they need to be big to make them stop and actually chew them. The speed at which each of them eat their bones vary as they are all pigs.

Personally I would't be worried about old dry bones that the dog keeps finding. They are often found at my place and given a new life as a different game. As for nasties.... dogs eat shit...... I think a few old bones aren't a problem. Dogs bury the bones to try and get that extra flavour!!!! I have never had dogs with gut problems from eating the old bones. In 29 years of dog ownership I have only ever had one bone issue and that was an old dog that got a sharp pointed piece of bone stuck in her gut. Nothing to do with it being old or new, just the shape of the bit she chewed off.

Things like proper tanned hides like that would be ok. Its only if the officer doing the inspection confuses it with RAWHIDE then it will be seized. you get a letter offering options, you could then ask for another officer to recheck it as it doesn't look like any rawhide is on it, and you may get it. Alternatively, you could ask for clean run to put a declaration in it stating there is no rawhide.

Of course its not only in public. But you can't police what people do in their own home. But when it is done on sanctioned grounds, or in the public, no excuse as no matter who sees it, it is not a good image of dog owners. There is already so much bad press surrounding a lot of breeds, and of course puppy farmers that abuse their dogs, so do you really want to ad proper breeders into that bad press? By letting them behave like this, is only the start. Its in other members interests to keep these public displays from becoming even more public.

I think its all about perception. I don't compete in sports governed by Dogs NSW. I compete in 3 sheep trials that is covered by a different code of ethics and conduct. I think that all members of any organisation are aware of the code of conduct etc of their governing body and therefore should be addressed in regards to any behviour that could bring a bad name to the sport/club. I think that someone belting the crap out of their dog on Dogs NSW grounds should certainly be addressed for it. Regardless of what the dog did. Its about setting an example to the public about the behaviour of the people involved in the activity as much as it is to promote different breeds. Even at sheepdog trials, if someone does something that could tar the image of sheepdog sports, it is certainly not left alone. Even recently, a member of the committee was very flustered with his dog and did treat it inappropriately where people could see it. Another trialler made a complaint as is was done where the public could see and basically it didn't look good. This person was a state representative of the sport. SO WHAT..... There was a special meeting held by the committee to discuss suitable punishment, which included the possibility of a suspension, taken off the team, etc. It was very stressful for all involved but it was felt it couldn't be ignored as the potential for bad publicity was there and it was unjust treatment of the dog. Recently a friend of mine was trialling her dog and he wasn't listening well so she quit the trial with him and as she walked up to clip him on the lead she "patted him roughly" while talking to him saying he was naughty. She didn't mean anything by it, she was certainly not reprimanding him and the dog didn't flinch, but still another trialler came up to her after and said she shouldn't do that in the ring because from outside we couldn't hear what she was saying and it looked like she was reprimanding him so to be very careful of what her behaviour could represent to observers. If things start getting reported more regularly, and people are addressed, then the behaviour will improve because it becomes unacceptable. Even if they get let off with a warning, they, and their friends etc will certainly think twice before doing it again as it could land them in hot water.....