dasha

Only live dogs can come back. You can't get a permit for a dead one. Military dogs go back and forward to war areas frequently. They serve a few months overseas then return for a while then go back again later. Some of them have travelled back and forward many times. Not sure about the rehoming options. Maybe the bomb dogs can be rehomed but eh military police dogs wouldn't be rehomed at all. They are not very social.

yay.i got 100%

I use World 4 Pets at Vineyard. their prices are good and are local. Its the only pet place I use. The only other place I get stuff is the vets.

Which Quarantine Station is he going to

What about Taiwanese mountain dog or Thai ridgeback Only seen a couple of each so don't know what the colour ranges are but thy look like an ancient asian breed

Very interesting. So the breed "American Bully" which I can work out is a cross between the APBT and ASBT seems to then fill the gaps. They look to be a recognised breed in USA. I am not overly familiar with any of the bull breeds but am always keen to get accurate information and learn more.

Glenorie Vet has some experienced dog people that run their puppy kindy classes too. Have heard good reports about them. PH 9652 1338

I go to local hardware store and buy desired length of venetion cord or similar then just tie a clip on it.

Yes that clip was from last weeks show. He got through so will be good to see how he goes in the next round

No I don't breed. I just buy them when I am ready for the next one. I got this one the other day just to be rehomed. But he is lovely. I have 4 dogs here at the moment so would like to off load the Blue boy soon if possible.

I agree Zayda... the nornmal is 6 months or so but if they do show signs earlier they are generally bad and will have a teriible life of the scratches....... or costly treatments for ever. I had a BC that was a chronic scratcher. He also started early and we did food trials, cortisone etc but drew the line at allergy testing. In reality the vet felt his allergies were a combination of food and environment. As we live on 5 acres and have horses, cats as well as a whole paddock full of grasses so I guess the results would have shown so many allergies that to treat him would mean he nearly would have to live in a pen or something to minimise contact with life. He aged early and his spine had problems from scratching all the time, his teeth wore out his skin was all inflamed. In the end he was 11 years old and looked about 16. I would not wish that life on any dog.

I have a blue and tan male here that is about 10 months old that would love a new home!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! He is really friendly and gets olong with others well and just wants to play.

I think 13 weeks old is too young to be displaying signs of allergy to nearly anything. I would be more inclined to think it more of an irritant. It could be from her vaccination, some form of mites, fleas and I would look at that before I resticted her diet from some essential ingredients for a growing puppy. It may be the shampoo causing the irritation! Have you recently put a collar on her...some dogs don't like them. I have a 24 week old pup that was scratching too much for normal. At her 12 week vax I mentioned it to vet, scraped skin.....nothing. At 16 week vax still scratching, no real redness or rashes. She is in water all the time so her white feet and muzzle were a bit pink but that is all. After having a severely allergic dog prior to this I was dreading another one so she then went back to vet as she has tiny pustules so gave her some antibiotics to trial and then after 2 weeks of those another skin scrape found sarcoptes mite eggs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! After 3 doses of treatment at 2 weekly intervals she is now clear. I asked about allergies then and the vets said 6 months is usually the earliest time signs of any kind of allergies would occur. And that is when they are bad. My advice is go back to vet and get a scraping done. Or use revolution every 2 weeks for 6 weeks as a trial and see what happens. Given you don't know the hygiene of the breeders place mites might not be out of the question. they may even be ear mites.

This sound like a really good opportunity for some keen Gundog people to go and see what it is all about and learn from some knowledgeable people. Fantastic that its free too. I hope you get lots of takers. Are spectators welcome?

In Sydney's west you can go to the markets at Windsor mall on a sunday. It si near the river which is full of waterskiers and people and a park around there. I have a Border Collie pup and at Christmas I took her up to the school party which had crowds, rides, cap guns, etc. At Christmas I took her up to see it all plus stayed around for the fireworks. As she was only 13 weeks old I wanted to take her out and experience all kinds of things while she was young.

I have a 21 week old Border COllie puppy and on a daily basis she does very good impressions of a cone head with both ears pointing up and crossed over in the middle, she also likes to have one point up and the other out to the side. Sometimes with a head wind she has 2 huge erect ears, then they both flop out to the side and down and looks like a real dope. But hey, they look cute and every time you look at her she looks different. Eventually they will settle and then I will know how genetics wanted her ears to be.

Yes, When ever mine are zapped by the fence they often run and hide for a while. I think it is because they can't really associate the fence with the shock unless they went up and looked at it and touched it ti see what it was. If they get zapped while just walking along and accidently touch it unknown to them, i think it really confuses them. I had one that got tangled up in it and I had to hold him down to get him free and try to untangle him and then cut it, and he was quite timid for a while and he even associated me with the whole experience because I was there holding him to get him free. There shouldn't be any physical health problems with him if he just got one or two thumps with it.

I have 2 dogs that are exactly like that. At first it started over bits of food, then it went to where the food is prepared, to the car, the back door (the treats are inside). I think that when it is something that becomes learnt that it is something that you will have ot watch. Obviously it will depend on the dogs general temperament. I don't have kids but I am always concerned when my nieces come over as kids often have nice tasty fingers or faces and they could easily become another thing of value. Also kids can go to areas that may be of value to the dog and thereofre a threat to the food source. I am certainly not saying you will have problems but I know that I really have to watch mine in most scenarios now as the competition between the 2 has transferred to other areas. One has to sit in the front seat and the other is not even allowed to look over the seat without some snarling and lip curling. If there is horse food left over in the paddock, the fence is protected from each other, the stables are patrolled from each other just in case. I just picked up one from the vet yesterday with a drain in one side of her muzzle and the other side of her muzzle stitched up...............over food and a kennel area. The same dog has been locked up for the last 2 months with a hock injury from fighting .......because the neighbours dog had caught a rabbit and she wanted to be first in line for scraps. She tore some bone from her hock so is out of sports for a while. There is usually one locked up at all times as they can't be trusted. But they play really well when there is nothing of value to any of them. I would recommend that you keep an eye on it to see if it was a one off incident. If not I would get some professional help to modify the behaviour before it is a real problem. good luck

I also agree with chaining the dog up. The chance of injury on a correctly fitted chain and kennel arrangement are a lot less than that of getting a leg or something caught in a fence or being collected by a car once out, or having a dangerous dog order out on them when they chase a cat. The talk of getting tangled in obstacles is silly. You aren't chaining the dog up with a huge long lead to give access to the whole place. If you did that you would have trouble. Most dogs that know how to walk on a leash correctly will tether just fine esp if they are also used to being away from the owner for periods of time. You place the anchor for the chain so there is nothing in the radius of the chain except the kennel and a water bucket. Or have the chain attached directly to the kennel of a length that will allow a dog to at least reach the ground if is inclined to jump over the kennel. As long as the dog is excersised daily it will adapt quite well. One of my dogs is on a 2 metre chain and the other is on a 1 metre chain at least overnight. They know when they are on their chains they are quiet and relaxed. As a matter of interest, what breed of dogs are we talking. As you said the place is for sale, I wouldn't be spending a whole lot of money on expensive fixes when you may be moving and may not have this problem again. JMO

Without seeing Coco and her behaviour it is hard to say why she does things. I still believe thought that is is the working dog in her. If you looked up a lot of Kelpie sites and saw pics of them working, they will often have a lower body position. Not so much the yardy types but more paddocky ones and also Border Collies. I don't think it is a submissive thing if she is doing it as soon as they come in her sight. It is a response triggered by movement from afar. One of my Kelpies will drop to the ground at the sound of an approaching car and she doesn't want to meet it and she is not being submissive to it either. She is positioning herself to get ready to block it if it doesn't stop at her behaviour. Then when it comes in sight her gaze gets more intense the closer it gets and she trembles with anticipation that she will be able to block it but then as it gets to her she leaps out and trys to grab its wheels. And yes she has caught the odd one but she still does it as it is her instinct and it is bred into her. Same as when a dog gets kicked or butted by the stock they are working tehy need to be able to bounce back and be more serious. To them, it becomes a bigger challenge to conquer the tough ones.

I think you will find that this behaviour is a Kelpie thing. They are "eye" dogs and what she is doing is what she would do if she saw a flock of sheep, goats, rabbits or anything that can potentially be rounded up (or hunted). When she spots them she will switch into a working mode as she is young and things tempt her. The reason she won't move is that she is trying to hold them in her sights and block them from passing her. If you watch working dogs working on stock or playing with other dogs, it is a normal thing for them to do. JMO

Kelpie-i she is sensitive to pressure full stop. She does know the voice commands but going one way (anti-clockwise) which by nature is her stronger side, she will become evasive and rush in and tail turn etc as she pressured by the command, the sheep, the fence and me. Even working with no sheep she will get upset at the command. I like to keep her direction commands in practice so I do like a lungeing exercise for horses but without the rope as she gets scared of the rope. I have tried to use a rake as Jesomil suggested but she just shuts down completey with anything in my hand. She does not ever switch off from the sheep and sniff the ground or anything as she wants to work them but just on her terms. Thanks for the ideas so far. i will keep working on her. We have some 3 sheep trials coming up and just wanted to get as much good training as I can.

I am trying to get an idea of the best way to teach opposing commands. The story is, I have a working Kelpie and she basically knows her sides ( left and right) but as she is very sensitive to commands and pressure I find it difficult to reinforce these commands at times. As we have had a slightly negative experience with one of our side commands, I have had to change the command for the same behaviour so she doesn't associate that command with her sensitivity. Tonight during training I was trying to establish that she understood the commands thoroughly and then was questioning the way these things should be taught. Would it be best to introduce one command for say left repeat only that direction until I was sure she understood or should you introduce both directions and alternate between commands to help her make the connection between the 2. Any ideas would be good if you can understrand my question.

If you contact the Working Kelpie Council they sell them. Not sure of price but from memory are only a few dollars

Thats why you give them a verbal command for a direction so even if they are out in front you can still steer them where they need to go. No point having them drop a bar or get a refusal for looking back when their ears could have heard what you want. I don't want my dogs having my body language over ruling and voice commands they have. We have seen before accidental arm movements causing refusals and incorrect direction changes. If I trip in a hole or slip on wet ground and put my arm up I still want to be able to tell them where to go to get around as best as possible. Thats just my opinion and how i want my dogs to work. I am not a fast runner and they are Kelpies so realistically I am more than likely going to be somewhere behind them at some point in the course so rather than be calling them back or slowing them down by checking them for a hand signal, I can let them rip around at their preferred speed. Having said that I do have a steady command and a stop command for emergencies.