dogdude

I agree with Jesomil I think that too much doggy play can cause problems in some dogs, and personally, I prefer to have my dog remain a dog snob. I do let her interact on the very odd occasion with a dog that I know is 100% reliable, but most of the time she is not interested anyway.

Get used to not competing at trials that you have entered if somethings not right...........its part of what most successful triallers do anyway.

Congrats Kavik!!!

Try cabana or cabanossi. When he gets half way back to you, give him a release command as you turn and throw the food behind you. Mix this up with formal retrieves to keep it fun and speedy. Start to release closer to the point after completing his pickup and turn to get even better return speed. Never release too close to you to avoid confusing a formal retreive to an early release.

It sounds to me like praise is not motivating enough for him. If you are going to do repetitive work that the dog really isn't interested in then you have to make it worth his while.

Hmm, I wish I could see some of these vids on my crappy net service. I dont do ccd anymore, because when I trialled my first dog (a B.T) only lost one point, and could of taken out a High in Trial had I entered Novice (was Encouragment class in those days) Gave up on it after that trial and got my first H.I.T the following one.

Great work Shoey! Looking great.

Edit Yes, and you may have to sell both kidneys to pay for them.

Hi Azazyel If your dog is getting totally exausted after a few tugs, then you are doing it for too long. My dog gets to tug for all of about 5-10 seconds normally, sometimes less. You should put more effort into him chasing it, than catching it. You should also only let him catch it when he is showing maximum effort in doing so, otherwise you will be just desensitising him to it.

IMO, teaching your dog to be "dog nuetral" is ideal. If your dog is over excited about having doggy play, then feeding his habit will only reinforce it. The second Balabanov dvd touches on destraction training using prey drive. The two dvds are ideal to get a start in drive training, or sign up for a K9force distance learning module.

I think he has a good foundation of the exercise! Just some drive building required now. Try releasing to a food/item target behind you, soon after he turns around from a short to medium distances. Release to the target sooner and sooner, and run to it with him. This should also get him driving. Also, be wary of rewarding across your body. Can promote crooked sits. You look to be doing a great job with him!

I think a slightly longer training session is fine for a dog that knows how to learn, and has drive........ as long as you throw in a drive building exercise. If I could see drive dropping off in any way, I would end it sooner next time.

Mine would have to be the heeling, for the simple reason of nerves, knowing that this exercise will usually show whether or not your dog is going to be switched on or not, also one of the exercises with the most opportunities to lose points on. First, second and third place are usually soughted out after that exercise.

Try releasing to a food target placed behind her. Dogs tend to gravitate toward the enforcement. You can also couple this with placing her at the edged of a stair or something. Use your command with sense of urgency to try to get speed into it. Dogs will normally choose the quickest and shortest route to achieve a reward. A crouch or foldback is quicker for them. Mark movement earlier and earlier to quicken it too. I like Balabanovs method of facing the dog while holding reward, then give the command while bending and lowering the reward/prey item to the ground quickly. Speed is made the essence of the game.

Judges down here think the same way. Watch for the look of disbelief if you pull out a dumbell in novice lol. I'm the same though, COP for novice, and DC for Open. I did have a big problem teaching DC to Oscar, and we bombed 3 Open trials in a row because of it. Seems to have it soughted now though. Blew some very high scores last year, and in his last trial he got over it, and sitting on a 196 when he chose to adjust his bum during the stays for the first time ever!

I choose to do COP, so it will be an easier transition to the UD work. Bit of a useless exercise Broadjump IMO. There is nothing much like it further down the track. --------------------

Yeah, she can move it no probs.......just have to pattern it into her! Have a good list of things to do over the next few weeks. Lots of phone book stuff!

Last year at the Broadmeadows trial, I was unable to use my nylon dumbell, so had to use my lighter wooden one. The wind was blowing so hard that when I thew it, almost went behind me! Keep your throws low and flat on windy days!

Hi emma08 Make sure that you read up the stuff regarding vaccination requirements. They use and enclosed tennis court to do the young puppy stuff on . My wife and I are dual members (two dogs), but I can say from experience that almost always, when two people begin to train one dog, the more dedicated handler will end up with more respect from the dog, and the other handler will crack the poos and give up lol! Dransfield Park is off Findon rd. Thats my home base, although I do a bit at the footy ground at the lakes, and also the park off Derby drv, normally mornings between Thursday to Sunday. You and hubby are welcome to join me whenever you want. Just pm me.

Hi emma08 I think the vet on High st does one, also Petstock on McDondalds rd. There was a dog school opperating out of the Epping High school grounds on a Sunday morning, but not sure if its still running. I know its a private ran thing, but I wasn't impressed by it when I went for a look. I recommend that you have a look at the Warringal club, that trains down opposite Latrobe Uni, particulary if you want to get involved in dog sports later on. They have a website that you can check out. I am a member there. Also the Wiltja club at Bundoora Park is quite good for the basic stuff from what I saw there. I do most of my training at Dransfield Park with my two Stafford terrors.

I second that! How many people do you see at trials standing way too close to the jump, causing crooked fronts/refusals etc, because they are scared of the dog going around the jump.

If she turns right... throw slightly left. Do it for both, otherwise your dog will return in an arc like Brydee did on the vid, otherwise they then have to adjust themselves to straighten for the front.

I mix and match mine. My dogs are both the same size, and I have one of each. Wish I could watch all of your clips (stupid crap computer). Think Mr Rudd will be buying me a decent one.

Hi JulesP Yep, shes filling out her frame pretty quickly. Never tried a ladder, but if I specifically practice and concentrate on left turns, she moves her back end well Hi Shoey. When does FOO start up again? Hi Seita. Its funny you should mention the backend swing, as Oscar "developed" this problem, just like Brydee has at about the same stage. Postion was great during the early to mid learning phases, so now I know I am creating this with laziness of some kind lol. Didn't take me long to fix Oscar though, so not too worried about it, but its great what you can pick up on film. Working back in slow pace was exactly how I fixed Oscar (and a guidance stick under my left arm.) Hi LR and SD!

The things I learnt out of this clip are work is obviously needed on her finish, and also that she turns to pick up the dumbell in the opposite direction to Oscar, which I will have to allow for in my throw, inorder to make her return appear more direct.