dogdude

Does it remain your choice at when the exact time to let go is? Or is it his? He needs to be the one to want to let go with a passion........but only when you say so, in order to get the "chance" of having another go. In other words, dont let the dog go out of drive, in order to have another go. (method fully explained and demonstrated in the dvds) (You also need both dvds)

The two Balabanov dvds are "Clear Communication", which basically outlines the method and compares it to other methods. And "The Game", which goes into using it to teach obedience exercises for trialling Schutz. One reason why his methods are better for using on dogs that are not full on high drive (as required for the Flinks/Leerburg method, is the use of the positive "out". This builds drive alone, and keeps them ready to go again. If I used an aversive "out" on my dog, she would switch off.

I use the method shown in the Balabanov dvd. Basically the dog only gets to catch the item if its showing maximum effort to catch it. There are various ways to do this depending on what you are using. You need to find the right balance. Too easy and the dog loses interest, and too hard can also be counterproductive, depending on how you structure your training. Isn't dog training full of iffs and butts?

I built my dogs drive with an impracticle fluffy, squeeky tuggie, then transfered the drive to a proper training tuggie (no fur or squeeks). Having a dog interested in an item is half the battle. Building the drive is the main goal. At first, my dog just enjoyed the chase of the item, but was uncomfortable tugging. Once she realised it doubled the fun, she was hooked. If you are not building the drive, the dog will lose interest in whatever you use. Even if he is going nuts about it now.

Is there a reason that you want to chop and change them? Just be aware that when using a "toy" in drive training.....it is no longer a "toy", its a prey item that the dog can only get access through you. The reason that I use tuggies, is that they're easy to carry, and not bulky. I suspect Erny dislikes the sqeeky ones because they are probably a little too distracting during the learning stage, and not practical in public. How small is your dog?

Its also easy to make copys of the pro tuggies like Leerburg etc out of 38 mm cotton fire hose off cuts, stuffed with craft wadding and a loop of nylon webbing passed through, and sewn in for handles. (suit medium to large dogs.)

Hi LukeGSP What item are you currently using for drive training? Does it not produce enough drive? or are you simply looking for something that puts them in "overdrive"? The reason I ask, is because they find it hard to learn in an overdriven state, and its counterproductive. To initially build drive, I used a fluffy, squeeky tug item, which sent her nutso. So much so, that I had to stop using it in training, and changed to a traditional two handled tug item (got it free with the Leerburg dvd). Now I have a good drive to work with, and also the concentration needed for learning.

I get nervous if they start looking relaxed! I prefer the focus to be on me, or the direction that I left in. Never been afraid the dog will break for me..............just other playfull dogs (cause mine is). I think a lot of these things are just personal preference. We all know our dogs.

If you are aiming at trialling, then I would be teaching the flip finish. The reason being, that the exercise also teaches proper rear end movement for left hand turns, and also faster left about turns. It also allows the dog to remain locked in focus, while the other method allows the dog to be tempted to look past you, while going around. Just remember trials are won and lost by one point all the time. When teaching any exercise using food drive, think about where you want your dog move to (or not), then place the reward there. ie: behind you for the recall, behind dog for stationary exercises. Release to the direction that you want to encourage, then the dog has no reason to want to move in any other. For heeling patterns like ring work, I place the target in a central area close by, to encourage the dog to remain in the close boundarys of a ring.

Congrats Glorybea!! Great news! Well done to Springdog too! Trained dumbell? Perhaps some of your winning ways will rub off on the Bombers next week?

My advice is to leave the heeling drop out of your training sessions, and practice long drops only, until she works out for herself that a side saddle drop is much more comfy. You can also help her a little by rolling her carefully onto her hip. When you re-introduce her to the heeling one.......keep them quick. Dogs will normally pick the lazy option, and will start to choose the right one for the job. This wouldn't take long to fix.

Yes, no drive satisfaction. Do you think the reason that you got a positive response for the experiment may be because your dog has already been trained using motivation by way drive (food or prey)?, and was expecting some kind of satisfaction after completing your commands? Could the dog of just been "waiting" for a real dose of satisfaction, but just experiencing more drive "building"? Trust is imperitive in good prey drive training, and I would wonder how long he would continue to work in drive (long term consequences?)

Totally agree with Pax's post! Too much dog on dog play will worsen the situation too. Work on making yourself more valuable.

Tug is a great way to satisfy prey drive, although if taught properly, the above concerns regarding dog taking posession of prey item, and to some extent, over use, become irrelevant. The dogs drive can be satisfied fully, without taking posession of the item. IMO it is imperative that "you" fully own the item, and it is his great "privilege" to play with it, under your terms and conditions. Under no circumstances should the item become a toy in his control. A great dvd for learning how to train this way is by getting hold of the Ivan Balabanov dvds (important to get both of them) They can be purchased from dogwise.com (well worth the money)

Consistancy is the key. One command, failure to follow instantly = making him do it (every time without fail) Never more than one command if he has some understanding of whats required. Dogs hate making the wrong choice if you are consistant.

My advice is to firstly get supreme confidence in your dogs level of understanding of each exercise, then, if you are doing what you are supposed to, the dog will either follow........or not. If doggie is properly proofed, all you need to do is concentrate on listening on what the judge asks you to do, and follow. Don't be scared of failure, because it will eventually become inevitable, no matter how good you or your dog is. I think nervous people become better with failure sometimes, because their expectations for the day get lower, thus relaxing them for success.

I wouldn't have thought a club would allow a puppy on agility equipment, particulary one not proofed under distraction... but anyway, I would also be thinking about why he reacts that way in the first place. Is it that he is excited by watching the other dogs doing agility, and perceiving it as "doggy play" (with dogs, and not handler?). Be aware that too much value put on "doggy play" can be a real pain to compete against while training under distraction, particulary with males. Make you (or something you own) be the centre of the dogs universe.

If she will loose lead walk, she should also loose lead jog with some practice. Get the walk down pat first (without need of correction), and the rest should follow. I'm sure I have seen stretchy leads that go around your waist that will save your shoulder failing that.

Sounds like you had a fantastic weekend Quobba!

What was your instructors point? Do they get you to try to do all exercises before they are taught?? You need to teach distance control first. Develop a clear hand signal outside your body's silhouette, and start off from a static stand for the drop or sit. After they have this down pat, I then add it to the recall. This exercise is very confusing to the dog once you add it to the recall. It is the first time one command will councel out another. Allow plenty of patience for confusion. They can drop recall speed until they have full confidence in the clarity of your command. A good thing to remember about the mechanics of D.O.R is that they will always gravitate towards the enforcer. So..... if working on the stopping speed, have food target behind dog, and when working on recall drive speed...... have food target behind you. You should be teaching dog to stop with the weight on his back end, and not front end, if you plan to have a speedy stop. You can acheive that by throwing food back over the dogs head as it is driving toward you, and incorporating a hand signal that looks like a throw.

Hi LukeW I missed that you are wanting to get the dog to stand from a sitting position. What about teaching a stand from a walk first (to teach the command first) then when he understands what "stand" is..........move to a sitting postion. A NRM used in an incorrect tone by a newbie can have negative effects on a young dog, but IMO the learning is accelerated, and has no ill effects if used properly, and if you know what to look for in regards to stress in your dog. Just try again ten minutes later. Make sure the pup is hungry. If I saw learning stress in my pup (now 10 months old), I would immediately ask her to do something quick and simple that she was good at, ....reward in spades, then try again ten minutes later. I only had to do this when I was teaching her how to find heel.

The important point hasn't got a lot to do with the benefits of a marker word over a clicker for static exercises, more the point of giving the dog time to work out what you want from him, then helping out when needed. How can you click (your release) if he never stands still? Also, if you do capture a stand with a click, you are teaching him to immediately break the stand to gain a reward. This method will never work. I think a "no reward marker" is just as usefull as a positive one in this exercise. It will help explain each part of the exercise to the dog clearly, including when he is allowed to accept his reward. Each no reward signal is followed by trying again, until you are able to capture a good quiet stand. You will find it a lot easier to get a bit of calm behavior by ditching the clicker and using your voice (because of past learnt behaviors), and also by getting the food off your body by teaching him to run to a reward target. You will find your dog will spend more time tuned into you, and spend less time looking for the food on "you".

Clicker should only be used as a marker. That is your main problem. You are not letting the dog know what you want. It hasn't got time to understand. You are only letting your dog think about the reward.....not how to work for it. Lose the clicker and mark with yes. Use words to let the dog know itsdoing well when standing still in the stand by saying a slow, quiet drawn out "goooood", then release to reward.

The way I shape it is by heeling extremely slowly, and just before stalling point, command stand (without hand signals at first) and mark and release to food target. I find that using lures for this exercise causes movement problems and lack of concentration due to signtracking. If the dog starts to sit, I give a no reward signal, then keep going (very slowly). ETA: Its a Balabanov method. My pup responded fantastically!

Hi Snuffle What breed is she? How old? Obedience ability is all about the handlers potential, hardly ever about the dog. The more high energy she is, the more potential she will have to compete at the highest level. There are a number of training dvds that you can look at. Have a look on dogwise.com Obedience would be an ideal thing to build a stronger bond between you and your dog.