dogdude

You can buy dumbells from most obedience clubs. The nylon ones are a lot heavier than the wooden ones. Retrieve needs to be taught in teeny steps that are then linked together. Don't try to teach a formal retreive as one exercise (like playing fetch). Your dog needs to be taught a hold with different items

Ok, have been experimenting with non toxic fabric paint and dyes: Updated model:

Yes, this thread has given me something to plan for. Although my dogs have generally got good focus, (that is a regular part of our training), we don't generally train for the start peg specifically. Makes perfect sense.

Hi Ptolomy A little off topic.......but a question While having your guru lessons, do they teach their dogs a one way focus? Or is all of their focus work eye to eye?

Its all about making them want to remember. Why would she bother to remember if 1) You keep reminding her,and 2) There is nothing in it for her during the learning and training.

There are a wide range of people who call themselves "trainers" at an obedience club. Very rarely do you find qualified behavior related advice at a club, so be careful what you listen to.

I found that the problem with the transition to OSS when teaching it, was that it is very hard to give a non reward marker at the appropriate time from a distance. I fixed my dog by setting him up using the corner of a building, or wall of some kind. Sit the dog facing away from you right on the corner, so that you can almost stand right behind her on the angle without her seeing you, and stay very quiet. She will get used thinking you are still very close, without actually seeing you, and may help overcome the sense of being alone. When she gains confidence that you are not "leaving her", you can then build on it slowly with distance. Just be prepared to take backward steps for any relapses. ETA: I'm not one for trying to avoid the dog breaking at all costs during the learning stage. Every wrong choice is a learning opportunity for the dog. "Wrong is good".

Well done Glory and Bindi!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You must be very proud!! Great news Vickie!!!!!!!!

And me Too much doggie play = Too much value put on it.

Is your dog working for anything while doing agility, because that is what his mind should be on. Playing tug as a reward should be a good place to start. If his mind is focused on a reward, then he will stop dreaming up his own self reward. ETA Agreeing with TSD

Many clubs that don't allow food see it as distracting and sometimes dangerous due to a class situation. If everyone is flipping food around, particulary in the beginners classes, there can be dog fights and personal space issues. In some clubs that I have been in, there can be 20 plus new students in beginners who don't have a clue about reading dogs. The same can be said for some of the higher classes.

Was entered in Open with Oscar. Will have to wait for Cup day at Northcote now.

Prey drive training is "ALL" about what you do with the toy or item, and how you build the enthusiasm. The same princepals of training in prey drive can be used in food based training.

I think it can have a lot to do with the dogs history of building on its natural instincts. I used to take one of my Bull Terries rabbiting with me from a pup, and he would start moaning in delight when he saw me getting the gear together. If he saw a rabbit in the car, he would nearly go through the windscreen to chase it. Everywhere we ever went in the car, he was fully alert, looking for rabbits continually. My other pup never went rabbiting, but I used to play ball alot with him........and he was ball obsessive, and couldn't give a toss about rabbits. Could it have been that your dogs built their own drive, and have built on it to a point that it is so powerfull, far beyond what a rag could provide? Have you tried tuggies that have a "natural" covering or similar?

I am entered, but now have to scratch due to work.

Hi SM I used to work for a fire equipment servicing company years ago, who I still have contacts with. The hose costs me nothing, but I intend to cut up a new one because they are a lot more supple to work with. The peices I have are recycled, and toughened by the elements. there are also varying materials they come in. That is where the road testing will come in. Hi Laffi When I get some spare time, ill send you one too.

Hmm........ok, try again!

Thats ok. I am entertaining the thought of one day perhaps making obedience and agility equipment for others, so I plan to roadtest anything I make thoroughly before I would sell it. I posted this a while back........ a high jump for trial training. Has an light aluminium angle frame, and pine boards, but I am exploring more lightweight but strong boards that dont make it too expensive. Wood costs a fortune now!

Ok.

Top work Superminty!!!

Well, I guess I could make you one..........Road testing it on Staffies should be a good indication on wear, so we will call it research lol. I just won't put a time on it, but when its ready, i'll let you know (anytime over the next few weeks when I get time) Are you drive training specifically? Are your dogs conditioned to working for something similar, or are you teaching it? I found starting off using something fluffy to get the chase going worked well, then wean them onto something more convenient and tougher like this.

Just Coz! So that it looks like a bought one.

Just finished making a cheap, tough drive training item out of 38mm fire hose off cut. The fire hose is rubber lined and encased in a tough cotton weave outer layer. Has road tested well. It cost me about $3 in materials, less if you murder one of the kids teddys for the softfill. Sewed a loop of soft rope from Bunnings, and passed it through a 30cm piece of fire hose offcut, sewed up one end of it, including the loop handle, stuffed it with softfill, then sewed up the other end. Used a doll making needle and upholstery thread (polyester to repel saliva damage). I have a Leerburg one, but found it way too fat for my Staffy's mouth. This size is just right. Just needs to be dyed black.

Best to start off with a flat collar first. Get the pup into a good walking routine and there will be no need for a check chain. A check chain can be a highly effective training tool if used in the correct manner, for addressing the appropriate problem. The thing is, newbies generally don't know what the correct manner is. Whatever the case, a training tool is only as dangerous or effective as its user.

Heeling is a control tool, used only in specific situations. Nobody would heel their dog for an entire walk.........or it wouldn't be a walk.