Zhara

Had a bitch 15 or so years ago that seemed to have similar symptoms as you discribe, I found she had a flea allergy (we don't have flea problems as such, but do have a cat and possums comming throuh the yard), her immune system was all over the place, . We put her Omega 3 which over the course of three weeks improved heaps. This also helped the coat as she would look like and emaciated dog when she lost her coat every season, and that was every five months. I believe a lot of dog foods have alot to answer for, just as with humans, the fresher the ingredients, the better. Over processed foods usually come with additives of some decription. Also what I found was that the ears smell, and I've been told that ears and coat usually go hand in hand. If the coat is affected by something, smell the ears, they should NOT smell sour ever! When cleaning ears, massage the tunnel below on the neck. If putting drops in make sure the dog doesn't shake it's head straight away or it will shake the stuff out before it can do anygood. Its more than likely that that is where the problem is. The visual symptoms may be just that. Visual. There is definately an underlying problem that needs to be addressed. Goodluck, hope you sort it out soon! Zhara

Hi, I had a Shepherd bitch I bred quite a while ago, She developed a lump in her neck. When she was due to have her hips xrayed I asked the Vet to remove the lump if her hips looked OK. Hips looking good, lump was removed. It happened to be a Calcium lump or some such thing. As my previous litter had hip problems, I was worried that perhaps I didn't add enough calcium Sandoz to their meals, so with this litter I was a litle heavy handed. As it turned out, I found out that one of the Boys from that same litter had a lump on his ribs, and it was diagnosed as the same sort of thing by a different Vet in a different town. So my suggestion to you is, don't panic until you know the facts! It may be something as simple as what I experienced. Zhara

The stairway is long and winding, The "Trip" has come too soon. But something special awaits you there, This difficult afternoon! From a distance, you cannot quite see, But something lines the pathway, something "Free" As you get nearer, oh what a sight, The path lined with SABLES, some dark, some light. Their tails are all wagging, some padding their feet A personalized "Welcome", for they know who'll they'll meet! This time not a stranger, but someone they know, Then a Heavenly Light beams a Glorious Glow. Of Shepherds and friends you obviously knew, Go forward, pass the Gates, they'll follow you through! Diane we know you rest peacefully now, We'll pick up the pieces and move on somehow! From everyone who knew you, you were really the best! We'll see you again, when it's our time to "Rest"! In loving Memory of Diane Gunn-Scarcella BONDED in SABLES Irene & "ZHARA"

Well I have found this interesting! 2 puppies from the same litter! On a positive they have company, but will learn to rely on each other too much. You will not be able to achieve a human/dog bond with either of them, at least not what you would get if you had one on it's own. They will be more interested in doggie habits than devoting themselves to a human. Glad to hear you will have them desexed, as when they start coming into season you will have a dominance problem. They will need time out on their own, should be able to lock them away from the children so they (the dogs) can get peace and quiet. They will need individual attention, and training away from each other, because all they will want to do is get to each other to play! You probabely should have got 2 dogs 6 months apart. That way you could establish a bond with at least one before the other came along. The second dog will not be the same as the first because again it would have more of an alliance with the other dog. Again the individual attention is required. One last thing if one has genetic flaws such as bad hips, eye problems etc, you are in for double the trouble! Many people have had siblings and raised them and lived with them, it is possible. Alot depends on your diligence and ability to recognise problems and solve them. I hope you have a very rewarding experience with your puppies and as they go on to become adults, it can be done! Zhara

There is a Labrador formula in the Royal Canin dry food, Super Coat is good enough and I know a Lab Breeder who feeds her dogs "Bonnie" another Dry food product. She says Labs need the extra protien and "Bonnie" has what she considers they need. I have also been told years ago that you shouldn't feed your dog Soy products as they are not good for dogs and more recently found out that because they are of a bean product, produce gas. If you want to give milk, it should be the Pet Milk which can be easily bought from a supermarket as can Super coat, just make sure you buy a Puppy formula. I worked in a Boarding kennel many years ago, and I Show and Trial Dogs, very interesting when you come across dog droppings, you can usually tell what they are fed! Take care, Do your homework! Zhara

I have taken away the charger the day I took the pic actually so unfortunately I can't blame that How weird is that your neighbour called her twins Riley and Mia I hope they are better behaved than my Riley and Mia ! I really like the name Riley and kind of wish I'd saved it in the event I have a baby boy one day......... Riley's parents are http://www.sundaneka.com.au/Frontpage.html under the litter page he's was out of litter "K" he was the quietest out of the males in the litter and we wanted a male the other two were biting my hands really hard and running around like mad but he just sat on my lap licking my arm and snuggling into me BOY DID HE SEE ME COMING ......... Thanks for that, As your boy is from a German import, he is going to have a strong minded disposition because of the years of training in his lineage. Our current male is from an import and he was a little so and so, so his training started earlier than my husband usually starts his dogs off at. That dog has gone on to be a very intelligent adult (now nearly 9), he was an excellent worker. Highly energetic and will think for himself if you don't give him enough instruction. He has produced a magnificent daughter who has the same work ethic as he himself has, she is also a very dedicated girl and as loyal as you can get. GSD's are thinkers and need direction. You have got a pup with a lovely pedigree, his Breeders know what they are doing, and I suggest you speak with them of your concerns. Chances are they have come across these behaviours before and will/should give you a helping hand. Zhara (Irene)

Just going on the picture you posted, I would suggest you don't recharge his battery as often, if at all until he is about 5 years old! My 12 year old son's name is Riley, and the young girl who recently moved in next door with twin girls has called them, Riley and Mia! :D Your boy's behaviour is not what we have ever experienced with our males, do know that some bloodlines have different traits, if he is very dominant then possibly has come from his breeding. I would make sure you are firm with him, if he does something undesirable, banish him to an area where he is on his own, and comes back out when he is quiet and sensible. When removing him, stay calm, don't scream and yell at him, don't speak to him. Just remove him! When he is quiet and behaved, quietly let him out without a fuss and give him a treat, making him sit for it, and then go about as normal. (When giving him a treat, keep it closed into your fist, hand kept low and against your body. He can sniff and lick your closed hand if he is sitting, then you slowly open your hand so he can gently take the treat. This will stop him from trying to snatch it from you or becoming excited and boisterous, which would excite him lead to him going into a humping frenzy. Keep it calm, even if playing with him...Calm is the key! Let me know who mum and dad is. Good luck Zhara

Interesting! I have used a similar technique, except that when you are starting to give the command "Staaand", with a hand signal, you land on your left foot, bend your right leg behind your left leg and under the dog's belly. (Need to know how low the belly is, the dog will be a bit confused at first, reinforce positively, and continue on with your work). It is gentle, definately placing your heel as an obstacle only, and it works quickly. Every now and again, the dog gets a bit slack and you do it again to remind them. I would also suggest, that most people that have trouble with position training is that they stop to soon. You need to take a couple of slowing paces to cue the dog that something is about to happen and they focus back to you. This principle works for turns as well as position changes. Zhara

GOOD LUCK! Zhara NQld

We just had an ET, here in Mackay, NQld. One bloke with a Shepherd jogged, yes, JOGGED all 20klm. AND PASSED!! Does that make "No Pump" sound like an excuse? He didn't need one, 'cause he didn't have a bike! This is for real. Alan Whyte, Proserpine, N Qld. with Ch. Jezlahn Flying Legend A'Z ET. Zhara

GOOD LUCK! Zhara NQld

Yeah, in the middle all huddled together, NOT! Dogs in beds ruin sex life! But then...... A little puff of wind, comes from the heart! Travels down the backbone, generates a fart! Farts are very useful, the do the body-ease! They warm the bed in Winter time, and suffocated the fleas!

Amen, that's what I'm talking about!

That's why you don't have a conversation with him, or bitch at him. Out the door to the tiolet and back to crate. GO TO SLEEP! If he's jumping onto beds, PUT A LEAD ON HIM AND WALK HIM TO THE DOOR, out for pee, BACK ON LEAD to the Crate "GO TO SLEEP". remember no conversation! If like and arguing, determined child! It's called TOUGH LOVE! and RESPECT!

Geez Steve, This will require a little patience! The dog needs to pee, if it's whinging. If it's cold in the crate, put a douna over it, (if he's cold, he'll want to pee sooner, if he's comfortable he'll settle!) . If you are a light sleeper, put the crate in another room, with a douna over it, LET HIM OUT TO PEE BEFORE YOU GO TO BED! In the early hours, LET HIM OUT TO PEE and PUT HIM BACK IN THE CRATE, tell him to "GO TO SLEEP" in a sturn, but friendly voice, then go back to bed yourself. Eventually, he will get the message, don't have a conversation with him, let him out, tell him to "Hurry up", when you know he's had a leak, tell him to "Go to Sleep" when you put him back in the crate. You are supposed to be the pack leader, if you allow him to sleep in/on your bed, you become his equal, NOT ON BUDDY! Stick to the plan!

I didn't mean it was best to do formal Obedience Trialling, just that we do both at the same time, because that's were were we are at the time of Training, Ability, and competition. I agree, you don't need formal Obedience, so long as a person has the fundamentals of understanding and control of the dog.

[a tachment=49286:attachment] Yes, we do Agility as well as Obedience. They compliment each other. If you have a fast dog you need to be able to control it, Obedience of some form is a must. We own Ch. Hagenstolz Whata Cad A'Z CDX, AD, ET, JD. , Ch. Karraine Calaisglow A'Z CD, AD, JD. and now their daughter, (74 Challenge Points for Aust. Champ.)Kyzhara Daisy Chain A'Z CD., although not Trialling as yet, will be in the Agility/Jumpers Ring in 2007. Our dogs are multi-purpose/multi-skilled. My bitches learn "Get Behind" and "Stop" for Agility. I never use Obedience Commands in the Agility Ring. Everything Iteach my dogs are positions. In order to maintain a requested positision, they have learned a movement etc.. to get to that place. If I say Heel, I mean Heel. To often I see people in the Agility Ring tellig the dogs to heel, they never do, at least not how you would expect to see the dog respond to that command. We score extremely well in Obedience, because what we expect is black and white to the dog. No cofusion. We did notice that if Obedience was first at Trials, the dogs worked better in Agility. If it was the other way around, the dogs were all keyed up and by the time we did the Obedience, they really still felt like they wanted the freedom Agility allows. You need to read your dog and find whats comfortable for both of you, and go from there. What scores are you after/capable of, and how best you can achieve that. Or will scraping through do! Aim high, train wisely, but most of all enjoy the expeience!

just a note dogs are not just a hobby for me, they are my life. i have been doing a profesional dog training course, i do volunteir work in a pound, i instruct at one club, i use to assist at another, i compeat in sledding, i work as a privat dog trainer, i have apparently been nominated to a commity positition at a obediance club (some thing about refusing to use their techniques and getting my husky through 3 leavels in one term) i'm hoping to open my dog day care center some time in the future. do you get the idear that i'm dog obsessed . the club will become a great club, they just need to get some quality trainers in their, but if they keep isolating people well......... not much anyone can do. That's what I'm talking about! May your light shine brightly, and the Stars in your future shine on for a long, long time to come. My dogs are my life too. Zhara is my shining light, and leads the way for me. I love my son too, we share.

Good Onya, I hope you enjoy yourself, I always do! Best of luck!

Have just read the Hypo Border Collie at Obedience Story. I understand your and the BC Owners concerns. However, speaking from experience, fundamentally, Obedience Clubs are volunteer organisations. Man power is always hard to get, and unfortuneately, the demand for capable Instructors can be quite hard to fill. It is sad when Clubs get set in their ways, don't want to change because it's easier to remain "safe" with what they know. So it leaves the STALE WARTs, whoops, the Stalworts to keep the Club floating, having alienated newer, and often experienced forward thinking people, whose knowledge should have been put to good use. What then happens is that the Club recruits people as Instructors who have limited experiences, generally having ever trained one dog, to take Classes, because they have shot themselves in the foot so to speak, and are desperate to to Man the Classes for People needing learn how to train a dog for the first time. These inexperienced Instructors, don't have the insight of problem solving, know little about different Breed Traits, and obviously, in your case, have not a sense of Leadership, or discretion. Your concerns should be expressed to the Chief Intstructor or Committee, and alternate arrangements should be made to help a person with extra needs. It is not easy at the best of times, starting off with a novice owner and unruly dog. It is so frustrating for all concerned to work in a group situation. If a Club is worth anything, they should nurture these people, give them the time and help they require, because it is these people with the difficult dogs, that will eventually make a better instructor down the track, because they have learned first hand, the hard way. I hope the BC lady sticks it out, learns to master the art and go on to succeed in whatever wants to do with the dog. Irene

Hannah, It is never easy. Look to the sky, see the stars, and believe Tayla is watching over you. This is what gets me through my hardships. I hope it gives you peace. Live to love again! Irene & Zhara