Dogs4Fun

I agree that different diets suit different dogs and different people. I have two small dogs on Eukanuba that do very well and are aging very well, fit and active. Both have "controlled" atopy, and need no medication if kept on Eukanuba and goat bones. But add any other foods or change the dry food, and whammo - allergy flares everywhere. So for me it works really well for these guys. Yeah I know Euk contains all the nasty things that dogs are allergic too, can't digest etc, but for my guys it is perfect. My large dog I have on a prescription diet as his gut was permanently damaged by a nasty gastro virus, and he will need a modified diet, likely for life. He does really well on it and looks a treat and is full of energy, great coat, great poos etc. I don't have to inclination or time to research home prepared feeding, nor I suspect the time or storage to do it well. But would I if I thought I had a dog that needed it? Sure.

Hi Heidii, I have always used one command for all jumps (including broad) but a different command for all the other obstacles, including tunnel and chute for the different types of tunnel. It is possible to train the dog to descriminate accurately based on the name of the obstacle alone and this can certainly help when on course.

Wow thats one amazing first post. You have a dog that has exhibited aggression to other animals and (apparently) children, and is not showing respect to you (is ignoring your commands). You need professional help with this dog. Online diagnosis or treatment plans for this dog and your household will likely end in disaster. If you state where you live, people should be able to recommend a behaviouralist for you.

I walk 3 dogs and have them all to my left in "casual heel" positions. They tend to end up with two in front (probably their waist level with me) and my older one behind them, but I don't mind where they are as long as they stay to my left and have loose leads.

Hey that will make 2 fluffies! I'm taking my standard poodle.

What was actually tested?

There is no such thing as a recall that is too fast :rolleyes: Just dogs that don't understand the front. Sounds like you need to go back to basics and teach the dog a front from every angle from very close. Only gradually increase the distance.

Have one here, my dogs don't like it, and they are quite "tuggy" dogs. Very disappointed with it.

I would think you will need to start again and retrain the exercise. Training the retrieve as a 100% fun thing can make things harder later if something like this happens. Now I am by no means saying you neeed to do a "force" retrieve, but you probably need to go back and step by step teach her all the components of the retrieve, so that if she gets upset or distracted, she can get herself back on track. At the moment, she probably can't break the exercise up in her head, so if anything goes wrong, she can't get going again. I always back chain the retrieve. Start by getting a good take and hold on command at a sit in front. She must reach out and grab the dumbell from in front of her (but ONLY when you ask her, not because it is just in reach). She must not release it until you ask for it, no matter what you do with your hands etc. This may also help with her current fears, as she will need to be concentrating 100% on you and will be nice and close and safe to you. Lots of repetitions, lots of praise / reward. Make sure she is desperate to to this before adding distractions (non BC dog nearby, moving non BC dog nearby, BC far away, BC closer, BC moving nearby). This will also cement this presenting position in her mind, and this will become the default position she wants to be in one she has the DB in her mouth later on (get back to owner, safety and a reward!!). Once she finds this just ever so wonderful, start to get get to pick the DB up from your feet, then gradually move it away until she has to turn to get it. Each step she has to make away from you will be hard, and you will need to proof with distractions and keep her happy and feeling safe. Add distance slowly. Then you can start having her in the start position and sending her from heel. Add the finish later. Then add in the jump once the flat retrieve is fabulous. Anyway, thats what I would do, and have done with a dog in the past that got munched in the ring once. It took 3 months but he finally had a very happy confident retrieve regardless of who or what was around. GOOD LUCK

How did you train the retrieve in the first place?

I always trim the ones I get.

Hi guys, Thanks again for the input. I'm in Eastwood, so the Eastwood butcher or the Castle Hill shops sound like a go. Awaiting further instructions ...

Thanks guys. Any human food sources? I would prefer these to avoid any sulphur issues (have had problems with a different allergic dog before with sulphur),

Hi All, I have a dog that is being worked up for possible food allergy. I have permission to trial him with some meaty bones for his teeth, and have been recommended to start with kangaroo (rather than his usual lamb flaps). So ... where can I get meaty kangaroo bones, preferable from roos butchered for human consumption rather than "pet meat". Anyone willing to share their secret sources

Hi Fru Fru, My current scissors are 9 1/2 inch - I think I would be a bit scared to use anything bigger - but my groomer uses some shears that looked about twice this to do the saddle area when he was in show puppy trim! Haven't seen the Jaguar scissors - any online suppliers? Have a look at www.clipperworld.com.au they have Jag. Thanks

Hi Fru Fru, My current scissors are 9 1/2 inch - I think I would be a bit scared to use anything bigger - but my groomer uses some shears that looked about twice this to do the saddle area when he was in show puppy trim! Haven't seen the Jaguar scissors - any online suppliers?

Thanks.

Hi All, I need to replace some scissors for grooming my standard poodle. I like the size and weight of the scissors I have (shear magic), but they don't hold their edge well enough. Where do I measure the scissors so I can order the right size: is it the blade length from hinge to tip or the length of the whole scissors? I am only doing a pet clip at the moment, but will be doing show clips some time in the future I am planning to invest in some scissors that will last a while. I have looked at the Whal and they seem really nice. Any suggestions? Also, can anyone suggest a good place to get scissors and clipper blades sharpened in Sydney, or a mail out place with a good turn around time?

At one stage I was training three dogs at one time. Two "old timers", one puppy. One oldster was risk adverse and was slow to try new behaviours, but solid as a rock once he got them right. One oldster was happy to try anything new, but was less reliable as he would tend to try and keep "improving" things once he had learnt something. The puppy of course was mad as a snake. ;) Two were doing obedience and agility, one obedience only. I found it easiest to write down what I wanted to do with each dog for the week - kept me on track and made sure that each got the time and work they deserved. As I needed to really change mental gears between working each dog, I would stop, adjust gear, and sit down, have a drink and a think when going between dogs. Perhaps a quick look at the notes I had for the week, and anything I had added re problems with the exercise(s). Ideally, each would have had their own sessions, spread through the day, but I did no have the luxury of that sort of time, so the short break had to do. I have now retired the olsters, so just have the pup and two sports to worry about. Of course I am planning for the next puppy ...

No it not "normal" for a terrier to e dog agressive. My guys are very easy going with other dogs, despite size, doggy rudeness etc. I hope you can find some good help to sort this out before it becomes a major problem.

Ahh mulberry season. The way I find out the mulberries are ripe is that my white standard comes inside with mulberry juice all over his face and neck. A fun discovery the first time with him in puppy show coat. Normal shampoos get most out, especially after the second wash. Dazzle Dog (a whitening shampoo) gets it all out in one go, but can make the coat a bit dry. You may want to put a bit of conditioner through after using Dazzle Dog.

Some really good advice here. Obedience recalls are a different exercise to free running recalls. It is important to use a different command. Never call your dog if you don't think she will respond. This builds up a history of her successfully ignoring you and continuing on with more rewarding behaviours. Use a long line to train a free running recall adding distrations and distance from you with time. Make the reward for coming in huge: it has to be more valuable to the dog than whatever they were doing (eating possum poo etc). So play with a highly valued toy for a few minutes etc rather than justs a crummy dog treat (she can probably earn one of those for far less effort).

Lots of exercise in the late evening, preferably with some mind work as well as leg work (ie a bit of obedience of problem solving games in there as well as covering some miles). Crating in a place with no likely distractions would appear a good idea: in the garage, laundry, bathroom etc. leaving him with a meaty bone or a favourite toy will help him settle in if he is worried at first. make sure you train him to be happy and comfortable in the crate before asking him to sleep in it overnight or you could end up with worse problems. If crating stops the barking but you don't like restriction him so much, perhaps building a run in a garage or shed for him to sleep in overnight may be an answer. There are good prefabricated ones available that you can move if you move out of home.

Even my 6kg terriers will completely eat a lamb shank, bone and all. Mind you they look a bit "puffy" around the middle afterwards.

Thanks all