Dogs4Fun

The AVA is decades behind the recomendations of veterinary researchers. I have never encountered a dog which was such a slow learner! The reality is that veterinary research is not reported in the mainstream media. It is shared 'in house' among veterinarians - and all veterinarians know that owners (their clients) rely on them for 'expert' advice, opinion and information! Vets are not "damned if they do and damned if they don't". They'd be spared all 'damning' if they shared with their clients such relevant information as is needed for them to make their own Informed Decision about the preventative health care of their animal. SERIOUSLY : Veterinary research is published in fully publically available journals, as readily publically avialable as medical journals of similar types. Most have free paper abstracts avialable on the web (vet and medical), and any university that has a veterinary and amedical program will have these journals freely available to anyone who wishes to go and read them. I can see the point of some of your comments, but really, focus on reality please.

Be VERY careful if you do this. If they slip, they can get some devistating injuries in a second.

At this stage, you may need to have her clipped down (or scissor her down) and use coats to keep her warm. You can certainly grow her coat longer over winter, but you will need to learn how to brush it properly, and brush it out every second day if she has the finer type coat. You may need to brush daily if she is getting wet or even when it is very humid. Those fine (incorrect) coats are not for the faint hearted. Otherwise, a short clip to your preferred style and a nice wardrobe of warm coats can keep the work down, but regular brushing is still a must.

The first sign I see / feel in my dog is a tightening of his feet so his nails extend slightly (I can hear a change in his footfall). No way I could get a meaningful image of this. But it sure lets me know when he is getting uncomfortable in a situation.

Removed due to a few nasty comments.

If you consistently will not let the dog in there, it is easy - we have always done this with our dogs. If you will sometimes let him in and sometimes not, then you will probably need to stick with a physical barrier.

I know several working breed dogs that go nuts at traffic lights, apparently because of the noise when the crossing goes green. Desensitization has worked with these dogs, but if your friend can't get sit and drop right, desensitization is unlikely to work.

Our kids were shoes when they're outside and they're taken off before they come inside. Do they make Nike sneakers in doggy sizes? I can be just as sarcastic as you if you want to go down that path... I'm looking for some constructive conversation, so if you have nothing positive to add stay away. Well yes, you can get dog shoes , but they are mainly used for protecting dogs feet when they have a pad injury or have to work on unusually hard / rocky / dangerous ground. it really is amazing what is out there for dogs nowdays. But back to the point ... I have found that with an outside deck leading to my back door, nearly all of the grot has fallen off before my dogs come inside. If they are wet, they leave wet prints in the first meter or so, which I just clean up. As you have carpet there, an area of plastic carpet protector or similar to stop this initial bit of dirty water may be of value. If you do let your dog inside, it is easy enough to train you dog to then sit on a mat or bed or in a crate near the family, and they can quietly be with you to enjoy your company. My dogs are not allowed on my furniture or in my bedrooms (let alone on the bed). You can set whatever rules you are happy with, as long as you and ALL your family members are working together and are 100% consistent. The dog can then be part of the family, but not rule the roost. baby gates are fantastic for the early training periods and even to keep the dog in/out of certain areas when it is older. I grew up with an outside dog, but now I have inside dogs and would never go back. I have a much better relationship with my current dogs than I ever had with our old family dogs. I guess it really depends what you want out of your relationship with the dog, and what you think the dog should get out of its relationship with you. Tis is something only you and your whole family can discuss and agree on. I think the most important thing is to make sure everyone agrees on all the plans (breed, living arrangements, who will be responsible for what etc) before you go ahead.

The agility top team from WA used to be an all GSD team, so sound dogs can certainly be more than competitive.

It could be a normal moult, or could be a skin or endocrine problem. Is there new hair growing back where he is losing it? Does the skin look normal? Is he scratching? If no hair is regrowing, it may be worth a trip to the vet.

There was Parvo around when I got my last pup too, so I understand your concern. But that exposure is SO critical. I carried my pup (standard poodle, so not a littlie) for miles :rolleyes: We went to the primary school at let out time and let kids feed him my treats (you may not want this part), and get exposure to lots of strange people coming and going, cars moving aroung, prams and general business, to the park straight after school to get used to kids running around and screaming, along busy main roads for cars, buses and trucks, to dog shows for dogs, PA systemsn, flapping gazebos etc. I basically wrote a list of things I wanted him to experience and then thought through the lowest risk way of getting that epxerience. If you keep the dog off the ground, and control people around you (OK you might look like a b**ch, but hey, its your dog), there is minimal risk for big positive outcomes.

What DO you want from the puppy class may be a better question? :rolleyes: You probably don't need all the advice on worming, teeth, diet, training etc. Just for your dog to see the other dogs? Perhaps you can carry your dog or take him in a crate to somewhere other dogs are (at trial, show etc) and allow the positive expecience that way?

No, you supply the dumbell.

Big white feet and big white chests on those pups. May not be purebred - if crossed with say, kepie, the weights are not as bad as you first think.

Ia gree that this is one of those bits of equipment you are probably be better off buying. But you can do a lot of contact work with a flat board or a simple home made contract trainer.

The ADAA website should have a description of the game and its rules

Becuse of the nnumber of events in agility now, the agility people have managed to get ANKC to allow a modified entry form which simplified things enormously. the normal forms are of course still accepted, and you just write in the class you wish to enter, and stick to one form per class.

You need an official measuring card and two judges. I "think" but am not sure, that officially measuring must occir at an ANKC event eg a trial.

Yeah, I'm a riot. Mind you, I don't recall ever been asked for my dogs' height cards. I have been asked more than once for my cards, but my dogs were near a height change.

Correct

Make sure you read the ANKC rules and not the ADAA rules. They vary significantly.

Thnaks for the feedback all. Still contemplating.

Yeah, I meant the outlet should be a normal part of a hydrobath!

I will be moving soon, and will no longer have hot water avaialble where I will be washing the dogs, so need to upgrade to a twin tank with heater etc. These two seem to be the best of the pack, but the Conmurra will pan out about 500 dearer by the time you add the "extras" like wheels and a drain on the outside of the tank (why is THAT an extra??). Can people who have experience with these two let me know if the difference in cost is worth it?

Before "forcing" her to do more exercise and move at speed, you might be wise to get her checked out to make sure there is no physical reason as to her reluctance.