Steve K9Pro

K9: unlike your point it seems? lol.... what the hell does this mean?

K9: best be sending me those directions for I can give them to anyone... lol

k9: I certainly have heard his whinning... lol...

R: K9: yes, thats correct, but keep in mind that they are in depth books, unlike some of the others suggested here.... M: K9: I dont think the cost is a big issue, more the fact that the books may be a little over the top for a novice... M: K9: Interesting point, I have seen people come to me & say they like my leather leashes, but steer away from the $70 price tag. So they buy a $20 leash from a pet store, 3 weeks after that the $20 one fails, so they buy a $30 one, this one stretches & the snap is sticky, so they buy another $20 to get them buy... thats $70 & they still have a poor product... There is no such thing as Too much knowledge, but quite a danger in a "little bit of knowledge". M": K9: "ever made"? Thats got to be some sort of record..lol.... I think "ever made" is a little over the top. I have these books, I know about 15 people who have them too, each & every one of us have refferred to them numerous times, & having said that, there are some books on the recommended list here that & have thrown away after 20 pages... They are in depth books, I agree, but they are accurate the information in them is invalueable... ****************** K: K9: oh.... lol... Im glad you liked it....

K9: I think you can ask, not sure if anyone with a negative opinion will give it though..

K9: old fashioned me still uses the stay command. The reason is that, when I give the down or sit stay command, my dog understands that he will not be getting a chance at prey drive satisfaction, he knows to cool off, get outta drive & settle in. When I give the platz command, the dog will go down in drive, he knows prey drive satisfaction (a chase & bite) will be coming soon, & to stay driven. I feel that when I use the sit only without the stay command & make the dog do a long time sit (stay) the action of sit gets slow. If I give sit command, the dog sits fast, the stay command lets him know he will be there a while...

Actually I dont know who I have, emails dont match user names...

Dog is an option, you dont have to bring one. Haven, I dont have you listed? ..... lol. yes I do....

To be honest Im not a reader, & I dont feel that new trainers can get much out of a bnook, as they havent got the practical experience to apply the knowledge from the book to their training, having said that, I have read just about every book recommended here, & Applied Dog Behaviour would be by far the most accurate, education book I have.

I sent an email earlier this week, this required the reply "CONFIRMED" to be added, those who dont respond to that email will not be considered for a place. If you didnt get that email, please email me asap, I will be finalising places this weekend. The subject of the email was "RE: K9 Force Training workshop Victoria 18th November 2005." If your still deciding, all I can say is that on Monday places will be secured & you wont be able to come along, with over 100 people interested, less than 20 will be coming.

K9: I was speaking to Julija (Training & Development Manager NDTF) who said that "We are going to be setting up a distance learning option by January 2006, so hopefully people from all around Australia will be able to do the course. Block training will be part of it where they come to Melbourne and possibly Sydney for a week block at the beginning and a week block toward the end of the course." I dont offer my endorsements lightly, but I can tell you that the NDTF is the way to go.

LL: K9: when working dogs, I feel that they have three levels of increased respitory activity (panting). 1. Breathing has transferred from the nose to the mouth, normal operation when the dog is mildly active but not stressed. 2. Dog is working within its fitness & hydration level, respitory function has increased to offer more oxygen to the blood & cool the dog. 3. Dog has become fatigued, working outside it's fitness & hydration level, working toward hyper ventilation. I believe that a dog can scent effectively in modes 1&2.

LL: K9: & then some... LL: K9": Im not answering my phone.... lol..

K9: complicated or not, tell us... lol

K9: Training is temperament specific, not breed specific. You will find many varyations in temperament within just one breed, so suggesting that there is a good method to train a certian breed is incorrect, the temperament needs to be assessed first & then a method chosen. A dog with a higher level of drive (positive drive), will be able to complete a greater number of tasks with more enthusiasm than a lower drive dog. For those who have commented on cross breeds, it's a flawed exp[eriment as you cant exactly say which breed was the genetic influencer. Yes all dogs can be trained, but you need to be aware of what the term "trained" means. You will not get a Saint Bernard to win a Sch title, physically & mentally the dog doesnt have what it takes.

K9: its possible however I think if the ball has stopped rolling this wouldnt be the case, should be easy to read the dog if he was doing this. LL: K9: At a seminar in Kentucky, it was explained that dogs interpret scent via a membrane at the rear of the tongue. Scent can be inhaled via mouth or nose, then adhere to the membrane for signalling to the brain. So I will say yes & I have seen it done also.

LL: K9: yeah you could wear it training in winter... lots of pocket for bumpers & birds... You might end up the prey item though ? ... fofl.

K9: yeah Julie, you could wear that! lol

K9: yes I feel it is, not enough control in drive to target.

K9: When I have seen a dog go through prey drive development, I have seen them go from running past the ball to running straight to it, I guess there will be some that dont see it, others that dont want it that much.

E: K9: yes I have read all of that, however if the dog couldnt see the ball, it would run right buy & not turn around. When the dog has enough drive for the ball, it will watch & want it more intently. E: K9: all golf balls arent white, not that I play golf, lol, but the ones I play with are orange.

M: K9: he cries because he thinks your taking something from him, he needs to reaslise, 1. its not his, its yours, 2. he will get it, every time, have patience.. M: K9: when I give someone a program for high prey drive training, its working this program 3 times a day, 3 - 4 minutes per session, 7 days per week. M: K9: to improve self control, have one sit stay, down stay, ok, on leash if need be. Let the other do one fetch, then swap. I dont like the two in prey drive together, its asking for trouble...

K9: use some of your tools at hand, tether older one just outide of the area you play, just outside = inches, not feet. Now play with the most keen dog you have, allowing it to capture the prey item just near the older dog. When the dog captures it, be all over it with praise & add a bit of rough play. One whole session with the older dog not getting a capture. Then repeat the next day, same thing but if you see the old dog traying hard, give it a capture, then swap the keen dog to the tie out & see how the old one goes..... Remember that, to make drive, a keen dog works for longer vefore gettig a capture, lesser dog gets more captures....

M: K9: training in prey drive evevates the value of the prey item, somethimg more valueable will certainly be worth fighting over. Providing a prey item in an area where other dogs may be able to capture it created conflict. I never play with prey items when I have both of my dogs around, it would end up with blood on the ground given my dogs level of drive & prey item experience. M: K9: he isnt focussed enough on the ball, when they get high in drive & focussed, often they attempt to strike the prey but may fly past just due their speed, they can be trained out of this if need be. Start throwing the item out with string attached, when he runs toward it, jerk the string back toward you, so he has to chase it. A few reps will have him dive on it with his paws, then try & capture it... H: K9: whilst Im not a canine eye doctor, lol, I believe they can see the items just fine, I can smack a golf ball, Happy Gilmore style, around 600m, my bitch will be off after it & strike the ball in a foot of grass. Thats after running 600m at warp speed. If there was a person hiding in the grass, she run faster & strike harder lol... ************************* K9: If I have 2 with me & want to play, I will put one in a drop stay & let the other chase, then swap after 3 or 4 minutes. It's not difficult...

K9: keep in mind that a prey item is something fast moving, umless the dog has been trained to chase a rabbit, the fur will be no more valueable than a rag. Rag in the end of a string is a good start..