Steve K9Pro

LL": K9: ok I post them here? LL: K9: Your handling skills & commitment plus that boy of yours are all the edge you need....

K9: they can talk & the did thank me... I am working on some of those "ideas" that I mentioned right now.. Is that a trigger for you????

J: K9: this is guard drive, a combination of defence & rank, when you leave home you dont have the rank so you dont have guard drive... J: K9: Im afraid that didnt happen, she was just being defensive, of herself.

H: K9: thanks it was great to meet you. P: K9: He is a nice dog with good drives & steady nerve, he has a lot of potential. NickyP: K9: well there were emails organising that before I even got back, I would say early next year... Slim1: K9: here are a few tips Excellent, fantastic, legend.. anything along those lines would be ok... P: K9: its called Pack Drive.... Isnt it awesome? Pippi: K9: His name is Stamp, & he is one of this countries top retrievers... ************************** K9: I had a great time too, it was great to meet you all, some for the second time around.

LL: K9: Uh oh.. lol.. LL: K9: I can state my experience in the two. I have found when I have the right dog, with good nerves, good foundation & I have the availability of corrections if I need t go there, I can get a 100% reliable dog in the situations I have trained for. LL: K9: I have read similar, however, positive doesnt always, hardly often in fact go inot in depth training in prey drive, the results are also based on every dog that they tested, & weak nerved or dogs with low drives wont be nearly as reliable. When I spoke of the forced retrieve vs the motivational retrieve, I feel that motivational will get you 95% of the points that you could get with Forced fetch, however, the problems the bleed over into the excercises both before & after the forced fetch have me prefer the motivational (prey drive) retrieve.

K9: when you turn into the left this encourages the dog to move fast, later when you switch the dog wont mind. If your bring your dog on Sat I will show you.

TA: K9: I simply replied to something you posted that was incorrect, I dont think your in any position to tell me when & what I can post. I guess you decided not to regail us with your e collar experience after all or make comment about the Federal Courts findings that totally dissprove what you have said. Thats fine, Im happy to leave it here is you are.

TA: K9: so your now saying a faulty collar, with a battery fault etc may somehow "rub" the dogs neck more than a collar with no fault? Let me tell you that you CAN not get friction burns from the collar rubbing the neck, doesnt happen. What you can get is irritation from the probes rubbing. Irritation is not a burn. Thats like me telling you that you can get a friction burn from a cross around you neck. Your only gonna get burned if your a Vampire... TA: K9: Its quite obvious, by the nature of your posts, the links you have made to other sites that you were indicating the e collar itself was burning the dog, I said rubbish they cant burn, your links were put to prove they could. None of those links or your posts said anything about friction until now. Friction burns dont occur either. TA: K9: again, to get the collar checked, you need to take it off, if you wanted to see if the collar was too loose, you cant with it off. FYI, the battery inside does not, can not produce enough current or voltage to cause any burn. TA: K9: I know its not a burn, friction or heat... Although you havent made comment about the case, this was proven in Federal Court. I also asked of your experience with e collars, would you care to elaborate now?

TA: K9: neck burns cant be anything, they would be burns, burns come from heat, not acid corrosion, not batteries, not collar being too tight, heat. Your right, we dont know, so saying is incorrect, right? Because you dont know. The OP never said anything about burns, in fact the thread subject is rash/soares. TA: K9: the way I interpret you post, you were talking about getting the collar checked out, when the issue is whether its burned or not, you can only tell if its a burn by looking at the dog. TA: K9: No, & no where have I said Or no where did I say what the issue was, I gave some possibilities . The are based on my experience with e collars. Maybe you can share with us your experience with e collars? TA: K9: again, no it cant, neck burns dont mean anything other than neck burns.

You said these collars only produce 2 volts, when you say they cause burns, your saying a 2 volt low cuurent stimulation can cause burns & your wrong. It would also be wise not to make a medical diagnosis without even seeing the dog. Given the information we have in this thread, all evidence has the most probable answer being pressure necrosis from leaving the collar on too long.

K9: someones website does not have to be factual, in fact the story of Rufus floats around many web sites. You will find if you search deep enough that the acide form the battery caused the injury to Rufus. Not anything to do with voltages or electricity. When this case was current, it was found that the sustem was fitted to a penned enclosure by the idiot owner so the collarw as going off continuously, I feel this is what caused the battery failure. If you would like some factual information, search the net for the case in which RSPCA lost in court for saying that. Here is a report from the ruling I find the Federal Court of Australia a more reliable source of facts than someone who was feeling guilty about not following the instructions that came with the system he bought. If you feel that a 2 volt low current stimulation can cause burns, your wrong.

K9: There are two reasons this can occur, one is known as pressure necrosis, that is the most common. Collar is too tight & being left on too long. Make sure the reciever (box) is left off until your dog is healed. There is a device Im testing at bthe moment that is said to reduce remove this. The other possibility is that the collar is too loose & the probes are rubbing the neck, this friction damages the skin cells & there is bacteria trapped underneath the collar that causes an infection. It has nothing to do with any electricity. K9: rubbish, collars arent capable of causing burns. Thats been proven.

K9: I have no idea where that is lol, but Trainer Jane Harper email [email protected] Behaviour Dr Jackie Perkins email [email protected] These are people I have worked with & do recommend.

K9: Development is with the back tie, for ob I dont usually go back to it, unless there is a break or something has gone wrong & the dog has lost drive. In your case I would have a good heel in drive & start to carry the ball in your right hand for a few reps, int if you can, if you see the dog loosing focus 180 turn, but you turn to your left, provided the dog is there, this means the dog has to run around you ok? Soon as the dog gets around to your left hand side, use your right hand to throw the ball into the ground behind your right side. The dog is allowed to capture it, I recommend a good long line 18 - 25 footer on the dog for this work, we have them. This teaches th dog to maintain focus longer, & to 180 fast. The nest stage is full focus where delays are added to increase focal time over speed.

K9: I can recommend some people in Queensland to give you a second opinion if you like.

K9: it is the strongest version of the NILIF program with no risk. What is the dog fearful of? K9: they all do, lol, but the pen resets the relationship. K9": Im sure the humour drops out when the dog bites them. K9: I really am working mostly with the latter these days, dogs are easy. K9: if the dog is rank & its not trying to declare war on me, I will grab the dogs tongue if it tries to bite, I then dont let go, until way after the dog wished it had never bit, 10 mins... Like I said though, none if this will help if the family dont want to fix it or wont follow your prog. You need to get that through to them, 2 options, change or kill the dog. If they commit to every step, which are minimal to start with changes will occur.

K9: I did give them some, pen, isolation, etc... we readin the same thread here? Here it is again case it missed ya the first time round.. lol...

K9: I wouldnt know but Im sure that they posted here for a reason.. K9:" I thought that was the reason...

K9": I agree Erny, some dogs have made a massive turn around far faster than anyone would forsee. What I suggested does require a pen, but there is zero risk.

K9: from what I read, this was a pet owner that had soght advice / help from the poster, noit a rescue group. Also, none of my clients have been bitten when following my programs as instructed. K9: & often its about $

K9: its probably more accurate to say that; You need to find a reputable trainer who can sort this, they will explain what tools are available & prescribe one to help you over come the training problem. I think this is better than, I have the X (tool) what trainer can help me use it. Its in the end about getting results & keeping your dog & you happy.

K9": some vets are brilliant, many are not. I have spoken to many vets on this issue & they have no idea what to test/look for? There are no guide'lines for them either. The vet has to trust the owner & certify them to use the collar.

TD: K9: only the dog can tell you that, if it keeps jumping off, Im guessing it isnt hurting too much. TD: K9: any dog with drive for a toy will do that, because it can The dog should make many attempts & fail. TD: K9": it wont destroy it but it switches it off. I would guess that the club wants the dogs in play or prey drive to clear their head for more training. TD: K9: this dog understands that there is prey drive satisfaction available form sources other than you, to successfully train in prey drive, you need to demninish this. TD: K9: its too complicated, have one dog down stay, then throw one ball, have the other fetch, when he gets back he down stays & the other goes.. TD: K9: this dog needs to stop flyball, go back into prey drive development for your motivator, & that only until he lives for that, then he will work well in flyball.

K9: if the people who currently own the dog are not keen on fixing the problem, due to whatever reason, money, time etc, then there is no hope with this family. Move the dog or euthanise it. If your diagnosis is correct, this dog should be islolated in a pen from the family for two weeks, with only food & water & not even as much as eye contact in between. This dratsic removal of resources often shocks the dog down a few places in the pack. When he comes out he can be reassessed, I have worked with a large number of dogs like this, with a very high success rate, but success only came as the owners were keen on keeping the dog at all costs. Tess: K9: having that said, there are many starving people in the world due to over population, lets have a good war & cull some out... I feel the dog deserves treatment, it didnt choose to end up this way. In theory, if your dog needs any type of training, there is probably a dog in a pound somewhere that doesnt, kill yours & get that one. A dog home isnt created by killing one dog & getting another.

K9: I believe this is out of pure ignorance, & the fact that the people who influence the laws, many are vets. There is no effect on the dog that certain health criteria need to be met... I have a test of my own, I put a lightbulb in the dogs mouth & if it lights up, the dog is ok to use electronics, its called the Uncle Fester method K9: The law, like many is open to interpretation, but I, & many other read it that, if a vet certifies the dog as healthy, your clear. Yes Ernry is correct, a qualified trainer can also use one or you can work under the instruction of a qualified trainer.