Steve K9Pro

K9: enlighten us, what is the dog trying to tell us?

K9: lol, Stamp is the man!!

K9: Tug work or your spinning with the ball? The biting you will go away... K9: nit put a lot of control into your dog through formal obedience... Thats basic but other things I would need to demonstrate.

K9: This being the generic version of the program, it is to cover many different types of dogs, but I like to leave the dog in peace to eat, lower pack members eat when the Alpha has left... What would you do if she was choking? Who watches you eat? lol... K9: you could but there isnt any reason too... Best to follow the program as per the instructions rather than modify it. The back tie becomes a positive thing for the dog, it stops you having to stop the dog breaking sits or stays with either Alpha pressure or physical pressure. It keeps the dog in drive... K9: No, do it as per the instructions.. Your telling me what you "think" the dog will do... Just give it a try, or of course, dont... K9: Im a little confused, above you say you will need 100 metres because the dog will go nuts for the food, but niw you say the dog wont eat? Something in your description is amiss... K9: not allowing dogs to free feed (ie removing food after 10 mins) is not a technique used to get dogs to eat things they dont like, its to stop them being picky... You wouldnt start this with something they had never ate before? K9: yes thats fine... K9: if you have the need for a 3 minute attention from the dog yes... if you dont no... K9: practice.. K9: I guess you mean your timing... practice makes perfect...

K9: he needs to be crate trained, just like he needs to be trained to sit, he needs to be trained to like the crate....

K9: yep!

K9: I personally (with a puppy) dont start this, I wont always have the radio at my disposal, I teach the dog to be happy in the crate.. The line should be light like the ones I had in Vic, no real distraction. We have those in 15 & 25 foot...

K9: This is ok, I usually recommend min two weeks though... K9: he will drop it quicker soon as he realises it will strat the game again... K9: I wouldnt, because when its time to add focus he will be desperate to find an easier way to win the ball...

K9: keep in mind that the TOT isnt about teh dog waiting for its food, thats only one of the steps.... K9: as the dog has so much desire (drive) for the prey item, its very easy, small bit of guidance & they figure it all out quick. K9: One big benefit of prong collars are that they give you back control, when you have control it triggers pack drive as the dog gives you respect... Soon as this happens, it isnt long before the magic happens... My style of training (as you seen) doesnt involve big corrections, rather a series of very small ones to show the dog where its advantage lays, its also overlain with very high praise. This proves fast & effetctive & has many other upsides as you have seen...

K9: not just that, things such as bite inhibition etc also play a big part.... K9: should be there befire the end of this year...

K9: yep, that sounds about right... K9: The demand is very high in Victoria, but I have been to Qld a few times, admitadley many of the ones in the last 5 years have been mainly commercial... All it takes is someone to kick it off & we go from there... K9: many other training styles will compromise the results that can be gained through training in drive... I do have distance learning packages but there really isnt anything like a demo....

K9: Im glad your seeing the wonders of my TOT program, people always ask what to do with a puppy in the TOT, as you can see its the same, they learn very fast. With your puppy, you can use the ball on the string outdoors if you like, but why not call the puppy back to you & play with it yourself, satisfy pack drive? Thats what I do...

K9: no by then the excercise is over... K9: your dog is not in food drive, fast the dog one night & try again... K9 place the food on the ground for 10 minutes, every day after 10 minutes, pick up the uneaten food & throw it away... No, its not Cruel mean or anything like that. No, your dog will not Starve hate you.

K9: Sure it is... K9: yes either that or a private lesson... K9: I have been to ACT before & someone was talking about running a day there a few months ago, not sure who that was, will put the thinking cap on. Many people travle from the ACT, we can set up accomodation & everything for you, all those details will be in the next web site update, coming soon as I get the chance...

K9: Sure does, if the dog thinks it can initiate the game or you restimulate the dog with the trigger it will go back into drive, or maybe never leave... K9: The first thing to mention is not caling your dog when you feel he wont comply is a good call, otherwise your asking the dog if he "feels like it". It weakens the command so well done on that one... Next the dog looking elsewhere may have been in drive peak, but when it was unable to find satisfaction, looked back at you (in drive initialisation) & was very ready to listen...

K9: lol, no shouldnt do.... But remember that you train under low distraction, which means no ther dogs.... ******************************************** K9: Hi there, its very hard to work every dog as you dont want to take someones dog for say drive work & the dog has low or no useable drive... some find it a little embarassing although there is nothing to be embarassed about. I did write this [below] in the info mail sent out with the address etc, I hope you did recieve it. ********************************************* K9: Let me know in any way if you were ot satisfied with the workshop & I would be happy to issue you a refund... K9: Im sure we all feel the same, I know I do.... K9: I really do have to update that site of mine, they arent there yet.. Email me if you need one, they are the best ball on a string I have ever come across... ************************************************ K9: Always happy to work with you & Andrew Julie, everything you have done only lays compliment to what I teach... ************************************************ K9: I would like to thank the whole SARDOG team & the attendants of the three days we put on... Everyone always is so nice when I travel its always too soon when I leave... Im sure with very little encouragement we will all be working together again soon.... Lablover Stamps perfromance & yours was awesome, as usual & thank you sincerly for allowing me to show you pair off....

K9: excellent & Im sure you will have no trouble getting the results you want...

S: If you have no problems tying them out at say a coffee shop etc, then no... K9: to keep it simple I like to get one command solid with everything I want including distance & time before I add to others, seems to be clearer to the dog... After seeing your dog, this wont take but a few days... K9: possibly that they are distracting each other, or that the food is still too close... K9: yes there isnt any reason not too...

K9: All of them....

Is that true even if the "new" temptation is of far more interest to the dog than the food ever was? K9: if its done right, you create drive, so yes it will work. K9: If I ever get time, or I bump into someone who can do it, yes...

K9: yes, with very little training the results are gained with the use of the respect gained at food level.

K9: Any side is fine however if you want to heel your dog later the right side of the dog can be helpful...

K9: lol... It may not be human friendly, but Im sure you will agree it works on the dogs lol... K9: Unf no one gets any younger, not even I can beat the clock... K9: How about we discuss these ideas at our conference Thursday nite?

K9: Initially, only a glance will do, you can build up this time by delaying the release... K9: The dog doesnt have to look at you the whole time. Its goal dependant, if you need attention for longer periods of time, then work on that. Increase the distance, make sure you have him at the off leash sit stay level. Then when he looks away, never release him, but when he looks back release him straight away... Where do you put the food when you're increasing distance? On the ground right in front of the dog or halfway between me and the dog? K9: The food is placed in the position where the dopg forst showed less interest, this may be 2 meters in front of the dog, you should be at the dogs right hand side. When you add distance you start by doing it to the right hand side. Would you start this program with a puppy? K9: yes for sure... And would you expect a puppy to stay sitting? Or would you just start with being happy if the puppy looked at you and then let it eat? K9: the puppy needs to look first then be taught to sit... Yes they will do it all, a little slower than an adult. But I have had puppies in sit stays at 6 weeks...

K9: yes the dog is back tied, you walk out in front of the dog, with the food.