Steve K9Pro

K9: Not so sure how many I will load, would you believe I have over 2000 pics to run through? lol.. Will probably upload top 20 or 30

K9: slight delay on the results, have had some computer problem with the new web site, but all data from the photo comp has been saved. I will announce the winner before Friday this week!

K9: I am yet to find a dog that does not give some reaction to a loud noise that the dog wasnt expecting or hadnt been desensitized to. In fact I have demonstrated to quite a few people with certified "gun sure" dogs that change the sound & the results change considerably...

K9: Actually they can, but it depends on the dog.. I guess its hard to know what I do through heresay... Some dogs need the tug to get drive satisfaction, & thats ok, there is just a cerytain way that I do that. Your description of tug is very similar to waht I do with only a few small differences, its also a lot to do when you start playing tug in the program...

K9: no thats a step you want to achieve... K9: ok, well using training steps for Schutzhund wont help if thats not want you want to train for.. K9: ok, so you played tug with him & now he wont give you the item? This is because you have shown him that the item is valueable by fighting him for it... Now its so valueable, he wont give it to you... I can underdstand that... I cant see your dog or what exactly your doing so its hard to give advice, even the smallest difference in the way you play tug can create quite a conflict between dog & handler. The way its meant to be is the dog wanting you to take the item & make it prey again, thats how it goes in my method.

K9: depends on your end goal... K9: This if Im not mistaken is a ScH video? Are you training for Schutzhund? K9: Lol, hmm again end goal is important, two balls / toys often will turn the nerves of the dog on & create a mouthy dog... K9: By the time you get to focus you should have been able to get the dog to give you back the item...? K9: you can create a mouthy dog, a high percentage of dogs will get mouthy if force is used here... What you will do is knock the dog out of drive though, which isnt desireable, it doesnt leave the dog clear headed. ************************* Each dog is different & there are several, although common, reasons for the dogs not to give back the item..

K9: I define a dog with weak nerves in the following manner. A dog with a low threshold to defence drive (flight / fight response) & slow recovery time. I am not a believer that a dog that is startled by a loud unexpected noise has weak nerves based on that test alone. Sure if the dog goes into flight & wont recover in a reasonable time, but not a dog who jumps at the sound & then with confidence investigates the noise. Past experiences may play a big part too... If I have a dog that has pressure applied to him or her & that dog under pressure, you may call distraction, can still go into prey drfive I call this a dog with strong nerves as the threshold to prey drive in this dog is LOWER than a dog that will not go into prey drive & chooses to run, meaning it has a lower threshold to defence drive... I judge a dogs nerves on its total startle response, including recovery, with various triggers...

K9: Hey this will be a great weekend, if I wasnt training in Perth I would be there. Even if you have no interest in SAR, you will get a lot out of this weekend, Julie, Andrew, Gus, River & M-J are a great bunch of people...

K9: I dont really need it, Im just always looking for people interstate as I get tons of emails every week looking for some one to help them...

K9: May I ask why her name is such a secret?

K9: I would give him 30 minutes not seeing them at all, jjust trying to cover the notion that he may feel dominated by them... Like I said I cant see him... If you know how to tape & send videos I would be happy to take a look, or lol, set up a workshop in the UK lol...

K9: there is a lot in reading the dogs body language, I could guess what I would do but that all may change if I seen the dogs, spent some time with them.. This no eating is usually one of two things, some sort of anxiety or simply spoilt. As I cant read the body language I can only suggest actions for the latter of the two. Make sure your dog is completely separated from the other dogs at leats 30 mins before dinner., Put out the dogs food make it a plain meal & make sure its at room temp. Run the TOT, take the food away after 10 minutes. If the dog ate none, no food the nest day at all, no treats, scraps found food etc... The day after that do the same, ensurfe that this dog learns to understand the only food it will ever get it out of that bowl, in the triangle, no good waiting to see what happanes later dog... Do this every day for two weeks, always have water available.. See what happens...

K9: all dogs have some interest in food, or they would not eat/survive. K9: I would start shrinking the dogs meals, & only make food available for ten minutes per day then throw it out. Fast the dog once per week.. On the day you fast her, feed the others, I am sure it will increase her food drive.... But yes you can do something similar with a toy...

K9: yes your entire male is fine...

K9: bring her along, remember we need some dogs lol

K9: keep in mind that its just in the ideads folder at this stage, may not even get off the ground...

K9: Info mail sent to all those whom have paid.

K9: If the dog will eat, start the TOT, this will build trust... Check out the thread unresponsive dog on DOL...

K9: Hi all, an info mail will be going out today...

K9: Hope Im on the list too! Soon as WA workshop is done I will set these dates up etc...

K9: take a look at http://www.k9force.net/develop.html & you will see that he is probably in his second period of fear. It hasnt helped that he has been left either... Bring him home with a good version of the NILIF program & start the TOT day one. Dont coddle him or react to his fear. When you release him to go eat the food, pay attention to what he does. Does he eat by running straight to the bowl, back to you, does he half circle the bowl & watch you whilst he eats, does he not eat? Let me know the answers to these questions...

K9: who was drooling LL, you or? :D ;) ;)

K9: putting chilli on a plate cant hurt, unless the dog likes chilli, then it will lol... Do remember that your trying to discourage counter surfing, not eating from a plate... But adding chilli wont do that, the dog may find the high ground (counter) a reward. Let me know if you need a mat, we have a couple left in stock. K9: Not really no, there is a thread around here somewhere about a workshop in SA, other than that I have distance learning packages for interstate people.

K9: we have a mat that you lay on counter that will take the "reward" out of the counter surfing... harmless, but annoying for your dog... I havent seen them fail yet...

K9: reading other things will probably only add confusion. Take a look at the articles on my web site, they will help. But look no one should be embarrassed, these workshops will be aimed at how you can understand your "pet" better, & take it much further if you need to. I will give every one a solid foundation in these programs of mine & do my best to make sure everyone is nodding their heads by the end of the day/s. The key ingredient is to have fun, not take it too seriously.. Nothing to be worried about, it will be great!