Steve K9Pro

K9: lol it depends a lot on how the dogs were exposed to prey, but agree that many dogs will choose one prey item and not trigger on another at all if their primary prey item is in play...

K9: You can look at it this way, some dogs have a favourite toy, they wont play with others, some dogs will chase lizards or stock but not play with toys. This is generally because of the way they were introduced to prey drive, as they have a successful way to satisfy drive, they aren't easily triggered by a new trigger. Doesn't mean it can be done, it is just easier when you start with the prey style you will be training with. It can be a matter of restricting their access to prey and then offering another avenue with many dogs.

K9: I would seriously have a good think about the big picture before you decide to extinguish or try and extinguish prey drive in a dog. Most commonly people only end up managing this in very controlled circumstances, and when the dog is not under this management, the dog is often worse as it is trying desperately to recover some drive satisfaction. Prey drive in a dog is a genetic feature, just like if you try and colour your white dog black, the white will grow back unless you constantly manage it. Training your dog how to achieve drive satisfaction may be a better idea, there are rules of engagement in which some items are not allowed to be considered prey, such as small animals, children etc, so training shifts the focus off those items onto more successful prey EG your toys. As a separate thought, imagine if we were talking about high food drive, we wouldnt be trying to kill that, we would be talking about channeling it, prey is really no different in terms of the dog requiring it.

K9: It is impossible or near impossible to kill or extinguish prey drive in a dog, more likely to extinguish or reduce it close to the handler or in a certain environment through aversion training.

K9: In the reply I sent I was just letting you know where consequences start and finish, use what ever fits with your choices and your dog. K9: remember that anger isnt a consequence, it is an emotion, one that has no place in training any dog. Best come up with a chew toy loaded with food and give your dog something to chew, rather than her find something on her own.

K9: Well I am back home too after a great weekend... First I just have to say how impressed I was with the quality of dogs and their behaviour over the whole weekend. They are a huge credit to you all and you should all be very proud of them! Special thanks to my helpers over the weekend who helped me with demonstrations, helping in the ring and everything else you have done for me There was such a great feeling over the whole weekend, everyone so friendly and willing to get up and have a go! This really makes an event like this special. There were also so many dogs with great drive and engagement, makes my job easy! So much precision from the DWD people too! I hope they didn't feel threatened when I showed them my "natural ability" in the DWD demonstration rofl... Working with your dogs and spending time with you all was awesome, this weekend will not be forgotten. I hope you were able to take away something of value from the information I presented, I think I got to speak to everyone over the days (I hope so), it was go go go from wake up to bed time for me. Thanks finally for the kind words, I appreciate the feedback very much.

K9: or, perhaps the wine? rofl

K9: Were just doing a stock take and the out of stock size three is back in stock. Were the only Australian Supplier of Jafco.

K9: I agree with Cosmolo, you don't get an unlimited amount of chances to rehab some behavioral problems, if your local to Underdog, make an appointment ASAP. This is not a DIY problem.

K9: Tail chasing / mutilation can be a very difficult habit to cure, it can be an obsessive compulsive disorder that can in time become incurable, only manageable at best. Due to the movement restriction I prefer using a muzzle over an Elizabethan collar, you will also need a program to work on with the drug therapy. It is true that amputation sometimes only see's the dog transfer to a rear leg / paw so it is a last option, this usually happens when the dog has mutilated its tail beyond repair. At times you can also use medication to numb the tail, the pain sensation often attracts the dog to it.

K9: Me!

K9: The remote collar has two probes, the current only travels between the two probes using the dogs skin to complete the circuit, no voltage or current enters the water.

K9: No problem at all.

K9: Best idea is prevention, get rid of the flies. Make sure the yard has no food left around, droppings etc are cleaned up fast and get a fly trap.

K9: It sounds like he is competing for the resource which is the attention you wish to give to other than him and by attacking the other dog he can stop that attention being given to the other dog. I would pen him in the yard separate to your other dogs as a management strategy first, this will stop him practicing this habit and get the pressure off your other dog. K9: Unfortunately the reward will have already come (the fight will be the reward) K9: ALl of the above options may be helpful,but if you go with them all at once, you may get adverse reactions or if you do get success, you want know where it came from. Best to work through a program with a Behaviourist near you and this will give you the best results. K9: I think the human aggression is just an extension of the behaviour he is displaying with the other dog, and once that is under control you will have the HA regress as well, but of course none of us have seen your dog, get some help.

K9: Keep in mind there are two different sized Hucks, ours are the large. When companies bring these items into Australia they are charged import duties and have to add GST, so at times when our dollar is great they "might" be cheaper overseas, but if we don't support local suppliers, they will dry up and when the dollar flips you have no option but to pay the higher price....

K9: We have great reports on the Huck, never had one destroyed yet, but if your dog can chew this up, you get your money back or a new one...

K9: I think there are a couple of things to consider. I think if your dog is in a fear period, it is risky trying to counter condition things he is frightened of whilst in this period as it can be a slippery slope and you could end up worse off. If your not sure of what you are seeing, it is a great idea to have someone of experience to look at your dog. I wouldn't be comparing this pup to your older BC whilst he is in a fear period, that is not a very good time to assess his temperament really and wont give you a true indication. Not sure where I gave you advice though? (but I am hopeless with forum names). If it is in the puppy development calendar remember that is generic advice that I don't do much socialization with pups in the fear period, but it may not be how I would cure a dog that had a startle.

K9: Great work Kavik, its all about strengthening that is the default behavior now! Well done!

K9: we have two types, both high quality and come in 5 and 10 m lengths. The premium range just went on sale or will be soon (I dont run that side) at 40% off... The premium cotton is rubber lined and wont slip through your hand easy and is still light too!

K9: Behavioural problems in dogs can be a process to work though and that is if your working with just the dog, but we have the owner to consider also, their levels of stress, fear, hope and courage have to be assessed and the program based around them and their dog, which can be a real challenge. I feel that there needs to be a series of steps made each one having a specific goal that may not be directly related to the aggression itelf, but one that may be contributing to the primary symptom (fear perhaps). Then I put it all together and progress along a heavily guarded path that allows progress at the fastest rate possible until the owners goals are met. Owners goals arent always about a totally cured / relaxed / non aggressive dog either, some are just happy if they can get down the street without an explosion! It takes real commitment on the owners part and to those that get there, I take my hat off to you all.

K9: I havent found anything that works in all cases, no matter what case I am working on, but I cant see how it will work with some dogs.

K9: I agree 100% it is easy in theory but it doesnt seem to play out that simple in real life and whilst we would like to control everything, life can get in the way, I hear you. I think distractive techniques are a great part of the program but they cant be it all, as you mentioned.

K9: If you have handled the dogs each time this could in itself be a concomitant cue though, or if it is done in the same place, this could represent a safe zone for a fearful dog or controlled zone for a rank aggressive dog (as you know I am sure)...

K9: I agree that it can be wrong to correct the "aggression" but I think that with some dogs correcting some aspects of their behaviour that compiles into aggressive displays can be helpful at teaching some impulse control, so I wouldnt discount it totally, but it really depends on the dog too. Some of the dogs brought to me have no critical distance that is measureable, at any distance they can peak and hit unmanagable levels of aggression in which case, you cannot operate just inside of their comfort zone. and this too