Steve K9Pro

K9: I haved seen that pic before, this is not caused by the stimulous produced by the collar but when the battery failed the acid leaked out of a poor quality collar & caused this injury. This was part of a discussion forum I am on a few years ago.. I have fitted hundreds of dogs with e collars & seen many more thousands trained with zero injuries. There is a complete story of a fellow that fitted his dog with a containment system collar & then penned the dog so that there was no safe area. The collar was left on so long it to malfunctioned, it may be the same picture, the one in this article has been cropped. Again this is miss use not correct use. Dogs that have collars left on many hours of the day can end up developing soares, these are known as Pressure Necrosis, the same condition as bed soares. Again, instructions require that you move the collar around & restrict the humber of hours he collar is on. The last section of how it would be illegal to fit the collar to a child is a nice one, it would also be illegal to feed that child dog food, so maybe dog food should be banned... Yet another beat up

K9: If the dog is jumping on you during preparation then you cant have that, feeding the dog will be rewarding the jumping...

K9: You train one in the Triangle then the other. This wont fix your problem, it is a foundation program, that by using this with other training, you will get the results...

K9: Move the food further away, you missed the part where you move the food away until the dog looses a little bit of drive... K9: yes or good is fine, but only use one & use it consistently. K9: That is what is called a co incidence. Training the heel should be continued just the same...

K9: We have a product that is cheaper & easier to use than the Containment system, although we have those too. You just place the unit near something like a garbage bin & that becomes a no go area.... Email me & I can explain more..

K9: Well I sure hope Tim enjoys himself.... Maybe Bob will take care of him & make that surname ring true...? (that one is for Andrew...) K9: I dont forget anything ever.... ************************ K9: Just to add an "on topic" comment here, those that feel that a NRM will see the dog lose attitude or drive, should take a look at their vocal tonation & body language when giving the NRM..

K9: no, what she is trying to point out is... I said that dogs eating before the pack leader & ending up dominant because of this is an old wives tale. She then suggested that, if this is my opinion, why in my TOT program do I say what she thought was the opposite? I pointed out that I didnt say the opposite at all... K9: No, what I am saying is that, if you have a dog that is dominant, when it is fed will have no bearing on that, it wont improve nor make the situation worse. K9: You have the dog assessed by a behaviourist, they design you a program that will re structure the pack & extinguish the dogs excessive rank drive.. ********************************************************** K9: The are several other reasons, the program can be directed in many ways to help with rank issues, to help with nerve issues, to help with obedience, respect & many other things... I have added the basic program on DOL & my website FREE. The advanced steps are explained during consultation. K9: Im sure it would.... As I spend a great deal of time developing these programs, & giving away plenty of free advice, I am sure you can stretch your thinking to understand why everything cant be free... Dont you think if it was, the people who do pay would feel cheated when what they paid for was free anyway?

K9: MJ I advise you to speak to Andrew when you name your next dog...... I feel he would suggest the name "Bob".. Thats the shortened version anyway, best ask Andrew for the rest....

K9: It is of significance, no one said it isnt. I did say, that it was in my opinion that, "dominance will not be elevated by the dog eating first"... I dont think I can make it any clearer than that...

K9: here is the first paragraph of the TOT program.. The second sentence is bold... K9: Im sure your talking about this sentence K9: No. That, as I said, in my opinion, is an old wives tail...

K9: It doesnt say that in the program, perhaps you should read it again. K9: I didnt say it wasnt important, I said it was a wives tail that dominance will be elevated by it..

K9: rofl.. I suppose there are perfect cars too, other than the GT? ;)

K9: I know what you mean but, I have been told by so many, "my dog cant go faster, cant perform better, cant do that", but they did... K9: the more driven the dog is to get the excercise right, the less the handler will have to do... At the end of the day, the only dog that cant do it faultless, is a perfect dog, & we all know there are no perfect dogs...

K9: of course. it tells the dog i isnt getting paid.. It would be very easy for the 2nd of these 2 to be the more motivated & consistent dog. K9" yes which is why I like to control the rewards myself, & steer away from self rewarding training methods. Self rewarding training methods can easily see you & your NRM turn into part of the problem not the solution... K9: NRM should not be conveyed as punishment, but guidance, "no your not getting paid but have another go..." This stimulates the dog very quickly to get driven again... PS: A dog that wants to work for you doesnt exist IMO, dogs that work for you so they get something from you, pat/praise (pack drive), food, or toy (prey drive), I seen millions of them...

K9: yes, this is what is known as a tertiary or maybe a secondary reward, going back to you & yo touching the dogs collar is what is required for the game to begin again. Another thing is that when you use a prey item as a reward, the most important part is the free command which should allow the dog to start tuggin, it becomes a reward (secondary) on its on... K9: It will make the 8/10 dog a 10/10 dog & the 10/10 dog 12/10. If the dog likes the jumps it may not be focussed on getting the course run as fast as possible, if you hold the most rewarding thing to the dog & say "go run that course & you can have it". The course will be run faster, if the accuracy drops off the dog doesnt ge the reward either....

K9: there has to be a "deal" made with the dog, the extreme of letting the dog have zero freedom would be a competition level heel for he entire walk. The point of walking the dog is to allow the dog to recieve sight, scent & sound stimlation plus excercise. I teach dogs a command that allows them to sniff on walks & walk on what ever side they like, in fron or behind, bu there is no leash pulling & n me waitin until they have decided to move on, those decisions are mine. Dominance being elevated by who eats first, who walks through doorways first is an old wives tail... (no offence to wives lol) K9: when I read the next quote, I think he alread has... K9: He is taking so much work to keep him in a pack position there is someting else wrong...

K9: I feel that through conditioning, the dogs gain a higher value of the excercise due to the end reward, just like training any excerise, you use the tug for example to give the excercise a higher value, until the excercise itself becomes rewarding & the tug most likely wont be required. It would depend on what the dog does after the run, if it runs to you for the tug, I wouldn't stop tugging... If it doesnt, I would.. I personall feel though tha stimulain the dogs drive before the run is better for control & speed then the tug afte on is own...

Bump.......... still looking for some people to email me

K9: In this program, I want the dog tuned into me, so I dont use a trigger (verbal), although you can say something like "where is your dinner". for eg. When I attach the tie out, it becomes the trigger, later when I give the commands, they are, just chains the commands into the reward a bit cleaner. K9: I like to provide the trigger in prey drive training so that I may turn it on when I like, but yes you have it spot on... K9: good question, if you mean something like "eat em up", I dont use that type of command & recommend against it. When I give a dog a command, I want it carried out, I follow a training rule "never give the dog a command you cant enforce" if I command eat & the dog doesnt, dog learns it doesnt have to follow every command... If you have enough food drive created by the experience of the TOT, when you give the release command "ok", the dog will do what it wants, eat, & if it doesnt, no big deal...

K9: The funny thing is, many guys in Ringsport etc wont even admit being pinched or bitten in suit, they think its embarassing to not "work the suit" properly... lol.. I was always happy to scream "real bite".. lol..

K9: Oh man you guys should try some bite work with a dog then you will know what scratched bruised & bitten is!

K9: If you have reserved a place in this workshop, could you please email us on [email protected], we had a laptop stolen & have only names, not contact details. Please email asap...

K9: Your puppy is proobably going through a "fear period". To understand more see my website page on development... In fear periods, it is my recommendation the puppy doesnt leave the yard, practice crate training or toilet training in which little can go wrong...

K9: adding some drive will def help him then, but also look at your command style vocal tonation etc, revving this up alone can really make a difference...

K9: Training in prey drive isnt a coomon thing for conformation showing, but you can make it work for you.. It is pretty hard to beat a dog that is very focussed on the handler during the stand for exam, it looks great.. I have also used it for dogs with aggression problems toward the judges, by putting the dog in high prey drive before teh stand for exam, so the dogs mind wasnt on who was examining him, but where is the damn ball! When a little more focus work is added to those dogs that are breaking the gait, they will look spectacular... It isnt a must do, but is sure is a can do...