Steve K9Pro

K9: well its a gesture to show I am pretty confident I can help... K9: we do weekend packs for interstate people, you arrive near us Friday morning, we set you up 2 lessons on that Friday, you stay over night Friday & we do another lesson Saturday morning & you are free to go or stay another night. Most people do three lessons in two days & stay 2 nights... (depending on the problems of course).. We will give you enough info between these lessons, the programs I will write & email to you & further unlimited communication via email & phone to get you sorted.

K9: I am going to preface this reply with this statement... I havent seen your dogs & could be way off, & in fact I feel online diagnostics are not the way to go, but I will give you some hypotheticals.. K9: Ok Wandy being attacked will often produce an overly defensive dog when "meeting" other dogs that she doesnt know. This will not be having any significant effect on her temperament now... Her actions of guarding are acts of dominance, she is trying to keep your other dog away, own the food & your attention so to speak as she see's these things (& others I bet) as resources she now feels "entitled" to. Your other dog isnt willing to back down under these circumstances & is stepping up to the challenge, because that what Wandy is doing, challenging. K9: This was an ascertive act on her part, no longer requiring the elevated position on your lap to mount an attack. She was far from psychologically bleeding, she was skulking as she feels you have no right to interfere in her warfare... K9: what you didnt wasnt bad but wont have any lasting effect, in fact the best approach is PRO active not RE ACTIVE... Side note that I read that your dog has no effective recall? As she needs to be on leash if there may be a distraction? K9: First we need to stop labelling one as the instigator, both these dogs are out of pack order & need to be re structured. Second I am in NSW so cant drop over & put an end to this fast but... I really think that you need to at least start the following until you either see me when I am there or another qualified behaviourist who will stop this crap right now. 1. My Traiangle of Temptation program, see links on my web site www.k9force.net or at the top of the training forum it is pinned. 2. Research the NILIF program, also on my site & other places. Nothing in Life is free. 3. If you email me I will send you some notes on crate training, get some crates & take charge of your dogs freedom. 4. You need to teach these dogs some mannners, so at least a small amount of obedience will be needed, this can be taught in the TOT, used daily. 5. Adpat the mindset in your home that you are the boss, & you are a Tyrant at that! You will have to be overdominating to drop these two down some pegs. Stay off the floor with the dogs, no dogs on your lap, lounges, beds etc etc. The more you become distressed over this, the higher they will become in the pack.

K9: I do have a pic of 3 or 4 of my dogs swimming with me in a heel pattern... I must dig that out... lol.. K9: Great to hear your still going very well EH... K9: well your reasonably safe way up there, but I am working on a long distance e collar so I can keep those doing Distance Learning Packages in line.... lol..

K9: Not all dogs are possible to rehab, but we have a very high success rate & I would be happy to give this one my best shot. Its only very rare occasions in which we cant help at all & recommend PTS...

K9: RL, Jane is very good. I know this may be a last ditch effort for you so I have not referred you on before this, thinking I would try & give you your best chance. My standard guarantee is "your not satisfied there is no charge". I know that doesnt add up to your travel costs but.. If you make the trip & are not satisfied, not only will there be no charge, I will pay your accomodation costs.... We are booking April now though... Thats the best I can do for you mate..

K9: It seems that he has had a bit of a hard time with trainers, so I can understand him being hesitant in making the trip...

K9: I can update you from my side, we havent had any sessions nor have any bookings made with RL

K9: sometimes when testing isnt possible or practical, simply trialling the "treatment" can be worthwhile.. There are some occassions in which I have suspected a certain problem, & as the cost of the test was wildly expensive we started treatment (whilst working with my vet) & monitored the results. If your thinking that is could be HK, starting treatment may be an option, BUT... I am not trying to put anything on all of those offering help, but in some some cases, too many options only serve a plate of confusion.. You could simply have a dog with a low threashold to say prey drive, & as this has gone unchanelled or un checked, here we are with a bunch of maybe's & no real idea... I am sure it has been mentioned that, pro help will be your best shot.. If you have already had pro help, & you have not gained success, seek a second opinion. K9: some times its very easy to make your dogs symptoms fit into something you have so far overlooked. HK is a very rare condition in dogs..

K9: so am I, but for different reasons... lol

K9: In your case your dog was probably not sioft in nerve meaning DAP served no purpose... Thats two to me lol..

K9: I guess the problem is, we dont know your dog for two years. DAP will have some calming effect to a nervy dog, yes I have used them, have tested them in our testing programs & the results are good. If your dog is under stimulated it will have little effect on its own. The breed of your dog to me is irrelavant, the amount of PREY drive it is said to have is why I would suggest training in prey drive...

K9: Your asking me to give you a step by step to something that it pretty complicated. Look up my thread on Training in drive & get an insight...

K9: no, no... I would stimulate the dogs drive, for say a toy, then teach it to do something, very simple to win the toy.. Then increase the learned moves to win the toy, making the dogs mental state go from high drive peak to drive initialisation tires the mind.

K9: Any training that invloves using a dogs drive is technically training in drive... Anything from having to do a search for the daily meal to training OB in drive.. There are a few that can teach you this or we have Distance Learning Packages that cover this... K9: I havent seen the dog so dont know what makes it driven, but something that is menatally challenging for the dog that will stimulate & exhaust the mind...

K9: having reater confidence & control over your dogs will also elevate your position in the pack & dogs will be happier being led rather than hunting (leash pulling).. K9: This method I have given you keeps the dogs mind in a place of concentration, rather than going over the top or being demotivated. This means that most of the time you spend training will yield results... rather than some methods that mean the dog will become disinterested & you end up talking to yourself.. So thats the reason it is so fast. K9: the low level of stim I have you using draws very little from the collar, so it will last quite a bit before requiring a charge. I personally hook mine to the charger as soon as the indicator drops one bar... **************************** K9: I am a professional dog trainer not a professional DOL poster... I stand by what I posted though, it did very much seem like you were raining on the parade of others...

K9: Its true that some working breeds will never be satisfied with a normal amount of excercise, & that allowing the dog to run, run run will help. But I have found that this is only a short term solution as when the dogs fitness increases, it will need to run run run & run run & run.. My preferred route to success is to do some training in drive so that the dog recieves mental stimulation. I have found 15 minutes mental stimulation can equal 1 hour of running...

K9: we have tested just about every anti barking device there is, in our tests we have found the ultra sonic collars to provide the lowest anount of success. We rated them at approx 25% effective (at best) We dont use Citronella as it is a poison but for "spraying style" collars we have the Jet Care, an air spraying collar that is around 70% effective.

K9: somehow, I doubt it... but perhaps Helen can clear that up... BP hasnt begun any place training, so if Helen was trying to give a similar experience, she would have needed to speak of a recall... correct?

K9: & it must have given you so much joy that you think it neccessary to go around trying to rain other peoples happiness... Give yourself a click... I note that you didnt mention anything about the recall which is what the topic is about... I have been using marker training for years, just using my voice, glad I didnt need a clicker...

and my Daddy can whoop your Daddy....

K9: This is correct, they are a restricted import in which a permit is required to import. Those who buy them in Australia have nothing to be concerned about though.

K9: I dont think you would have flanked your dog to vocalisation level or level 10- corrected your dog to teach the out though, am I right? This (part of the) method is the part I feel wont see many dogs make it through, those high level corrections extinguish all but the hardest dogs drives & from the outsode it appears the dog just doesnt have enough drive... K9: These are just ol tricks, for example, the tail goes just in front of the heel on your boot & the dog feels very little weight.. K9: It was probably his Police dog, one that will be kicked in its career & cant let go...

K9: No worries, or my Distance Learning programs on Training in Drive are pretty comprehensive & are producing stunning results. I am thinking of having an info nite on training in drive, just need to put something together..

K9: The Leerburg DVDs promote Bernhard Flinks method of TID. Bernhard is a world class trainer but, the level of dogs that suit his method are very hard to come by, so most dogs that you will see will fail. The method that I have developed is still training in drive, there are hundreds of versions of this world wide, but it is more easily achieveable by moderately driven dogs with somewhat softer nerves & it is equally successful on high drive dogs with nerves of steel. Watching how the out is trained on the video may give you an idea what I am talking about. Having said that Bernhard has achieved results many only dream of. K9: your leaving too many options (choices) for the dog. Cut out the feed that the dog thinks will replace the training food. Fast the dog once per week leaving only a good supply of fresh water on that day. Begin a feeding regime that shows the dog that the meals it needs will come only from your hand, mouth or the way you use treats. I believe that one drive isnt enough to control so I always utilise at least two for high level dogs. I would be developing pack drive with your dogs as they are SBT's, although a generalisation, this breed usually is very pack driven. K9: cool, you may get a benefit ot of at least Module 1 of my Training in drive Distance learning package which teaches you how to develop drive in a young pup that is driven. It helps you eliminate the pitfalls.

K9: Here is Henry, & Mike, they are doing a Distance Learning Package on Training in drive with me & they are in Germany... The prey item is the handful of SNOW... lol... You can see Henry is standing in a foot of snow, is locked on the prey item & in full self control here... Look at that focus!