midnightmint

I think that in this case, her weight is irrelevant - I am not getting "dragged along" by the dog or anything like that - it's just that she is injuring her throat by pulling as hard as she does. I've had lots of little (and large) dogs before- several of them were "pullers" - but none did it so bad that they injured themselves like this one has. I might start with the Puppia harness.. she will probably still pull, but at least it won't be harming her throat.. and I can gradually work on the obedience training which will be useful in training her to walk alongside me or heel.. Thanks for your help!

Thank you Kavik. Yes they walk fine, separately. Why do you say you wouldnt put a head collar on a 5kg dog? I have read about the general dangers of head collars, but why is it worse on a 5kg dog as opposed to a 20kg dog? Because a 5kg dog's muzzle is more fragile? I am going to find it a bit difficult to walk them separately, because I live in an apartment, and one of them will go nuts (and bother the neighbours) if I leave them at home whilst I take the other one out. The best solution for the time being, seems to be getting her some sort of harness (or head collar), while I work on obedience training her. I do 'correct' her when she is pulling but she basically just ignores me and sails on - she is so intent on pulling and sniffing around. I have only had her for 3 weeks so unfortunately I do not have as much 'power' over her as I would like to have, at this stage!

Hi all I have a new (adult) dog who is 5kg. Initially when I first adopted her from the pound (about 3 weeks ago), she was walking perfectly on the leash. I then adopted another dog (the male dog that she had been surrendered with) one week later. Now, when they are walked together, the female dog pulls on the leash, all the time (sniffing around madly). It seems like she is either super-excited to be going on a walk, now that her buddy is there to accompany her; or else she is going straight into "pack"/hunting mentality. Two days ago she began gagging and coughing constantly. I took her to the vet thinking there was something wrong with her - it turned out just to be bruising from when her flat collar had been pulling on the leash (when my mother walked her - I wasnt present so I had no idea she had begun pulling so badly). I know that I must train her to walk beside me, using treats etc; however for the meanwhile, I need to buy her either a halti (I've heard that Black Dog Infin8 is the better option), a no-pull 'chest' harness (like the Sporn harness), or a regular harness (Puppia soft mesh harness). Which would be the best for her? Check chains, martingales and prong collars etc are not really an option as she seems to be oblivious to any pressure/pain around her neck, and is causing herself serious damage...

My new doggie from the pound has kennel cough. I thought that both components of kennel cough were "canine" diseases - so I introduced my dog to my mother's 2 (very old) cats, and my dog stayed the day.. coughing in the loungeroom that the cats share, etc. I've now done some more research on the net and have found articles (mostly american) that say that Bordetella bronchiseptica CAN be caught by cats (and humans). Is this really true.. does it really happen? Have you ever known this to really happen? Should I panic and get the cats put on antibiotics and madly attempt to disinfect (which is a bit impossible - my mother has lacquered floorboards.. there is no way we could put bleach or strong disinfectant on them)..

Hi The subject line pretty much sums up my question.. I didnt think that owners could even buy vaccines but I have noticed some (at least, feline vaccines and individual canine parvo & kennel cough vaccines) available on pet websites. I need my dog C5 vaccinated shortly.. Can I do this myself (assuming that they are just subcutaneous injections)?

Well, I am in Sydney, and can do the Syd training blocks. Though I was contemplating doing it in Melb because Ive seen some posts saying that people thought Melb training may have been better. Im sure that NDTF can just get another company (or ADT's old trainers who are now out of a job) to teach their practicals at the same kennels.. ?

Hi all I'm meant to enrol in the NDTF course by tomorrow (to get the pay in full discount).. I'm really interested in seeing what their certificate and statement of completed modules looks like (preferably first.. before enrolling tomorrow!).. Has anyone got a scanned copy of theirs that they wouldnt mind showing me?

How about installing a doggie-door into the motorhome's door? Or a flyscreen/security grill door.. she might not feel as "locked in".. I would suggest (if it is safe to do so), encouraging her to stay in the motorhome with you during the daytime.. but leave the door open. Also, I would be feeding her in the motorhome, giving her lots of cuddles, bellyrubs etc while in there.. anything to make her feel like the motorhome is her "happy place"..

Hi guys I'm just trying to find out the names and places of any MAJOR dog training/obedience/sports clubs or classes in Sydney's Eastern Suburbs. So far I only know of Eastern Suburbs Dog Training Club (Centennial Park).. are there any others? Also, are there any qualified and professional trainers that visit vets to hold classes??? (not just vet clinic receptionists/nurses who may not be trained specifically in Dog Behaviour & Training).

That bed looks like fabric, Raz.. I think Eeiko321 said the dog urinates on anything that is fabric.. so whatever she uses, will have to be easily washed..

I've tried explaining several times that I've already done the RUV units at TAFE, so there would be no point in me doing the course if the VBN units aren't nationally recognised as well.. they werent able to confirm that for me.. I'm frustrated because I want to get the Pay Upfront discount (one month in advance) which means I have to pay next week.. and still dont know/havent decided if I should do the course (because I havent been given answers..).

It could be a blockage of the pyloric sphincter (tube which carries food from the stomach into the intestines). My old JRT developed that over several months, and had to be PTS. I doubt that it would develop overnight, but I suppose it is possible to have something else (i.e. undigestible object - bone, plastic, a rock.. whatever) block the tube in the same manner. Something similar could also happen within the small intestine. If it's possible that he has been throwing up without you noticing (ie in the backyard on toilet breaks?) then weight loss is a sign that can be linked to that condition. Feed him several very small, easily digestible meals, several hours apart, and see if he keeps them down ok / doesnt have any problems. It may have been a one-off/nothing to worry about. But take him to your vet if he gets bloat or other pains, seems restless, or vomits... or if he doesnt poo for a day.

How about using one of those standard dogbeds (the steel framed ones with a plastic mesh bed area) with a crate / plastic sheeting or something underneath, to catch any urine that runs through the mesh? That way you just have to hose out the crate/sheeting and the bed.. it'd dry in half an hour in the sunshine.. or else buy 2 of the mesh beds and use them on a rotating basis.

Thank you - this is what I have been trying to find out for the past week or so... but it seems that even NDTF/Precise Training AND VETAB haven't been able to give me a solid response on that yet.

sure can, if i ever get it Been waiting a few weeks and nothing yet, my TAFE teacher also wants to see it, so she can work out what units i dont have to do for the animal studies coursei am siging up for. Are you doing Animal Studies II? I just did a combined TAFE course of Animal Studies II and Companion Animals III. The subjects that should have been done in the NDTF course which you prob would have covered are: RUV2102A Follow OH&S Procedures in an Animal Care Environment RUV2104A Provide Food and Water for Animals RUV2105A Participate in Workplace Communications RUV2107A Provide Basic First Aid for animals The "Provide Food & Water" one at NDTF may have been an elective?

I don't suppose anyone would be kind enough to scan a copy of their NDTF certificate and statement of units of competency, so I can see what it looks like? The reason I ask.. is that I was talking to a TAFE (Animal Science) teacher today.... I showed them a list of the NDTF units offered.. and they think that half of the subjects (the units that start with "VBN") are not nationally recognised.. maybe just recognised within VIC. The other units ("RUV..") are nationally recognised.. but I have already done them. I don't really want to enrol in the course if all the units arent recognised nationally or at least in NSW. I tried researching on the internet tonight (VETAB website, NTIS website) but didnt really find anything that was in simple enough terms to know if the course is nationally recognised or not. The NTIS website said it is "Accredited in VIC". I dont know if they mean that's just where it was registered (because the NDTF office is in VIC) or if the course is only recognised there.

Well they sent me the RPL application form (30 pages in total.. diff pages for the diff units) and it looks like you can at least TRY to get RPL for general life experience, other courses etc. I just know that someone else in another thread said they got knocked back (when they did a vet nursing course). Surprised me, because the vet nursing modules should be pretty in-depth... more so than what they offer (the RUV modules appear to be mostly Cert II level.. ie RUV2107A).

I found a thread where someone else said that they sought RPL for some of the units, because they'd done a Vet Nursing (TAFE) course.. but NDTF knocked them back (on the RPL) because they said their units were SLIGHTLY different. Not sure if that may be the case with your uni degree as well (even though the uni degree subjects are probably more in-depth!). The modules I just finished studying at TAFE are those EXACT same unit numbers though, so I don't think they COULD knock me back on RPL..

No, I just feel like I've been asking them a million questions and don't want to seem like an annoying pest, before I'm even properly enrolled I rang yesterday and the appropriate person wasnt in, anyway.. I'm still waiting for an email back from her (only from 2 days ago, though) about something else..

Can anyone that has done the distance course please tell me which units are studied in the first 2-3 months? Is it the 4 general "RUV210*A" units - Provide Food & Water; OH&S; Workplace Communication; Basic First Aid ? The reason I ask is that I would get RPL for those units.. and if I enrol this year, I will still be finishing another (fairly intense) course.. so if these are studied first (meaning I wont have to do them) then that wont be a problem.. (I can just do the training block and then get stuck into the rest of the course (the behaviour and training units) in 2010).

Hi I was wondering if there are any other certified dog trainer's courses besides those run by the Delta Society and National Dog Trainer's Federation? (particularly in Sydney)? Has anyone done Cert III in Companion Animal Services (at TAFE) and also done Cert IV Companion Animal Services through Delta Society (the one that they alter to make the "dog trainer's course")? I am doing my Cert III at TAFE and am wondering if Cert IV would be doubling up on a lot of subjects/learning. (The Cert III at TAFE does have one small dog behaviour module, but it's really not geared towards being a trainer's course at all - it's just a general animal care industry introductory course). At this stage I am leaning more towards doing NTDF's Cert III in Training & Behaviour.

I think that Pyrethrum is the "natural" product derived from chrysanthemums. Pyrethroids, Pyrethrin and Permethrine are the man-made synthetic form, I think. I know at least 2 of these products are toxic to cats. I'm still unsure about Pyrethrum, I know it is at least RELATED to products that are toxic to cats.. so I will prob check with my vet first. I rang my vet regarding the FleaBan house & carpet spray which contains permethrine, and my vets said that it IS toxic to cats (even though the Exelpet FleaBan packaging said it was okay to use in cats' bedding). They said it appeared to be a low dosage, so would probably be okay, but they recommended that cats be kept out of the area whilst spraying and not be allowed to walk over the floor until the spray had dried. I'd rather not use the product... my cats are 15yrs old and my dog is 16½... theyre all too old to be exposed to questionable substances.. I wouldnt expose them to any of these things now.. unfortunately I do have to pick the lesser evils, because the fleas are in such plague proportions right now.. There are also websites on the internet that warn of Neem Oil being toxic to cats.. I don't know if that applies just to the "oil" or if some pre-mixed "Neem Sprays" are alright.. Lots of products are claimed to be non-toxic, and people are led to believe that, because they are "natural".. but there are soooo many natural things that are toxic to animals (particularly cats) - essential oils, tea tree, garlic, etc etc.. Has anyone tried a homemade lemon spray/rinse on their cat? Does it actually work? I surveyed my two cats yesterday.. the male cat whom had Advantage applied, appears to have NO fleas. The female cat, who had Frontline Plus (spot treatment) applied, is still completely infested (over 24 hours after application), and the fleas do not even seem slow or sick. Frontline Plus clearly doesn't work, at least, not in my area, or on my cat.. now I'm really annoyed because I guess I can't apply any other top-spot product to her for a month.

What a funny/strange story! Apparently the nematodes were selling quite successfully in the USA some years ago, but their popularity decreased when Fipronyl (Frontline) was released onto the market (because Fipronyl controls flea eggs/larvae as well).

I hadn't considered Neem.. thanks for that idea.. but I am a little bit concerned and confused about it's toxicity if licked (or if grass sprayed with Neem wash is consumed).. particularly in relation to cats (I have 2). The info re: Neem Oil and Neem Spray on the internet all seems to contradict..

Hiya My garden (and whole surrounding area) in suburban Sydney is ridiculously infested with fleas (almost every home has dogs or cats, and it's a very sandy area, so I guess it is no surprise). This is my current flea treatment routine, which I have been doing for years, and seems to do virtually nothing in reducing fleas during summer: Advantage + Sentinel on my dog Advantage spot-on, on male cat (this seems to get better results than other spot treatments) Frontline Plus spot-on, on female cat (she has reactions to every other spot-on- goes a little bit crazy and drools a lot; but she is okay with Frontline Plus spot-on). I am just about to also give Program oral suspension to the male cat, so he is covered for flea eggs/larvae. I sprayed the house and pet bedding with Exelpet FleaBan about two weeks ago, and put the usual Advantage spot treatment on my dog. Within about an hour, he had what seemed to be his first seizure, or it could have been a heart attack. I bathed him again immediately, to get the Advantage off him. Since then, he has been quite unwell generally (breathing problems, maybe some sort of pain, a bit of reflux? The vet could not diagnose anything besides a "harmless" heart murmur). This dog is 16 yrs old. Both products have been used before around him, but I'm concerned that due to his age and fragility, maybe one of these chemicals does not agree with him anymore. Exelpet FleaBan is a permethrin substance, so I am avoiding permethrin and pyrethoids now (except flea shampoo, which I guess would only contain a small amount and have brief contact with the dog). I'm a little concerned about all chemical products with him now, so I'm even reconsidering giving him the Sentinel tablets from now on. I haven't re-tried the Advantage on him yet, but I will once the 30 days has passed. In the past, the ONLY way I was able to eradicate fleas, was to do the above spot-on treatments and oral flea larvae preventatives; and Capstar tablets, in combination with the FleaBan house/carpet spray (indoors) and Baygon "D.I.Y. Outdoor Expert" insecticide (Bifenthrin) spraying the outdoor garden areas. The fleas are definitely outside, in abundance. However nowadays, my dog eats the grass outside (he didnt, last time I had the flea problem). So I dont know if I can spray the insecticide. It says not to use it on food plants, and to keep pets away, etc. Are there any insecticides which definitely kill fleas, that CAN be used on food products? If not, can I use the Baygon Outdoor spray, but a) try to avoid the soil/grass areas, and only spray it on the walkways/cement (which means the insecticide will still wash into the garden when it rains, or the garden is watered). and then the insecticide will be drawn up into the blades of grass, via it's water from the soil.. or B) Do I just spray the whole garden... and assume that if the dog eats a couple of blades of grass that was sprayed, it won't have much effect? (though of course I really have no idea). I can't stop him from eating the grass, but I can't ignore the flea problem in the garden either. Every time doggie goes outside, he returns with 12-20 new fleas on him (I know, because I thoroughly search his hair and pick them off by hand.. it can take an hour each time!). For INDOORS, I am going to try spraying with PeaBeu low-irritant insect spray (in a normal can) - it does not contain permethrin (other chemicals instead). I am going to try the nematodes, but if they don't work, I might try diatomous earth (I don't want to use them both at the same time, because the D.E. might kill my expensive nematodes). Also, I don't know if the D.E. is really as safe as people say - it HAS been found to be carcinogenic to humans (causes lung cancer). Can anyone offer any advice? I'm at my wit's end.. I've actually thought that (considering my dog is very old and "on his last legs"), I'm considering having him P.T.S. this summer - he really is SUFFERING from the fleas (he has severe flea bite dermatitis too). Help!