badboyz

I think by 14mths he should be more than capable of jumping into your car Pandii. All mine have no trouble jumping onto the outdoor table setting. The girls generally use the chairs to jump up, but Dylan can get onto the table without help. I think my guys all learnt to do this from each other, Charm being the first to learn from the naughty beagles. Jumping hurdles at agility is no trouble at the medium dog height. It is important with growing pups to discourage jumping, but once they are full size, (about 9mths) it should not cause problems.

I have been asked about what collars are best for shar pei, because with the excess skin on their necks they can easily pull out of a normal flat collar. I prefer to use Limited-Slip Collars as they are worn as a flat collar, but will tighten slightly if the dog pulls on the lead, making it difficult for the dog to slip out of the lead, without choking the dog at all. I have been able to use these in training classes, where instructors usually request a flat collar. Martingale collars also work in a similar fashion.

No Cat, not any more. The baby pup, Jazz, still gets a little Artemis Puppy food, which I bought to try out. But once that is gone, I doubt I will buy any more dry at all. During the past year I fed Pro Plan regularly, and was quite happy with that. Nutrience Derma is another dry I have tried and thought quite good. I do feel they are healthier overall without any dry food though, and am much happier that the only grains they are getting is the rice that I cook myself - no wheat, beet pulp, corn, etc, which is found in most dry foods.

You would be better posting this question in either the training thread or regular shar pei thread I think Surgebuster.

Only one that posts anyway!!! I have asked SPR to join in - get in here girl! Ears: A good diet can go a very long way in maintaining healthy trouble free ears. I encourage owners to leave the ears mostly alone unless there is a problem. Dark waxy substance in ear is normal. Avoid getting water in ears – bathe only from the neck down. Wipe face and ears with a damp washer only. Unfortunately some some pei do have particularly small and wrinkled ear canals which may be prone to problems and need regular maintenance. Treatment would depend on whether it was a yeast or bacterial issue. After diagnosis and treatment by a vet, maintenance may then include regular cleaning with something like diluted malaseb (bacterial) or Canestan cream (yeast). Diet: My dogs are fed a mostly grain free diet. They get a soft bone for breakfast (chicken wing/frame/necks, turkey neck, Roo tail) and for dinner they get raw pet mince (mostly made up of chicken frames, offal and fruit/vegies) with a little boiled rice. Sometimes they will also get tinned fish (tuna/salmon/mackeral). I tend to avoid beef. I have fed top quality dry foods, which some dogs do absolutely fine on, but I find they all do much better without it,. I am very fortunate to have a fantastic pet food manufacturer nearby. Trainability: I have found the shar pei to be a very intelligent and easily trained breed. I have owned a few different breeds over my life so far, but find pei have been the easiest for me to train. They seem to pick up something new after only one or two lessons, and they never forget it. I have recently started agility training with my 4yr old male, and even though we never do regular practice at home, and only go once a week, sometimes once a fortnight, he is right on the ball as soon as we start work. I have found this true even with baby puppies. I have also noticed they will learn quickly from each other. I started teaching my male to sit before being fed. Pretty soon they all started to copy him without actually being formally taught by me. Shar Pei are also well known for being one of the easiest breeds to house train.

Yes they do have mixed coat litters. Horsecoat being dominant and brushcoat/bear recessive. This means that brush to brush mating can only produce brushcoats, while horsecoats can produce either. Horsecoat and brushcoat are both acceptable. They can get along very well with other animals. Mine have lived happily with beagles, chihuahuas and cats. Other owners on this forum have pei living happily with rhodesians, rotties, newfoundlands, and small fluffies. The one that tend to be dog aggressive are usually those that are kept in more isolated surrounds and are not well socialized or trained. Colours can include any solid colour, except white: basic colours: red, fawn, cream, black, brown, and dilutes: 5point red, apricot, chocolate, cream, blue, isabella, lilac. Occasionally their are bi colour dogs, called flowered shar pei. This is again considered a breed fault. They have similar markings to a fox terrier, with a coloured head and mostly white body, with patches of colour.

Coat Types Shar Pei can come in 3 coat types. The name Shar Pei literally translates to Shark Skin or Sand Skin. This coat is reflected in the Horsecoat shar pei. It is very short and when rubbed against the coat can feel like sand paper. It is not uncommon for people to get a slight rash from the horsecoat shar pei. Only Horsecoats are allowed to be shown and bred in China. The Brushcoat shar pei has slightly longer softer coat, which should still be offstanding from the coat and is acceptable for breeding and showing in most Western Countries. The Bearcoat has quite a long and soft coat (similar to a Chow Chow) and is considered a breed fault, not to be used for breeding or showing.

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) Involved in showing/breeding dogs for 14 years, Shar Pei for 6 years. 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? HISTORY: Originating in southern China around the time of the Han Dynasty (206BC – AD220). Shar Pei where hunting and guarding dogs used by farmers. They had to be intelligent, hardy, multi purpose dogs as peasant farmers could not afford many single purpose dogs. The Shar Pei where also used as fighting dogs to generate extra income, but the Shar Pei temperament was not suited to this role and artificial stimulants where given to make them more aggressive. Their failure as a fighting dog is proven by the fact that they were never introduced to Europe. During Communist reign in the 1950’s, dog ownership was heavily taxed and farmers could no longer afford to keep their dogs. Many ended up in the cooking pot. By 1970's Shar Pei were destined for extinction. Hong Kong breeders Matgo Law and Chung Ching Ming sought to safeguard the breed by publishing a letter to the American Dogs magazine requesting help from American dog breeders. They received over 200 replies and from there the breed was saved. The breed was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1992. There must be something truly special about a breed that can come from near extinction to kennel club recognition in such a very short time span. 3. How common is it in Australia? While they were listed in the 1970's in the Guiness Book of World records as the rarest dog in the world, they are now reasonably common. 4. What is the average lifespan? 8-12 years 5. What is the general temperament/personality? Calm, independent, very loyal to and protective of their family, cautious of strangers until introduced, making them excellent guard dogs. They can be very smart and quick to learn. A naturally clean dog, toilet training is a breeze with this breed. They are generally quiet but will certainly alert you if strangers are about. Some may be aggressive towards strange dogs. For this reason all should be well socialized as pups, and throughout their lives. Puppy preschool and training classes are great for this. Mine live happily with Chihuahuas and my cat. They do not bother to chase the local birdlife. 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? Shar Pei are not overly active dogs and will do well with a good daily walk. Not generally a breed for joggers and fitness fanatics due to their heavy heads. 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? Provided the owner is of a stonger personality type. These dogs can be dominant and independent, so an owner needs to be able to take on the leadership role and gain the dogs respect. They can be a wonderful, easy breed to live with. 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? Yes. A Shar Pei will be your constant companion yet not usually fret or destroy things when left alone. They will share your life yet maintain their own personality. They do well as an only dog or as part of a multi pet household. 9. How much grooming is required? Normal bathing and grooming required to that of any short haired breed. Weekly brush and monthly bath is more than sufficient for most healthy dogs. 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? They are generally calm with children and do not tend over-react. Pups can be very mouthy and like to chew hands, but this is usually gentle and does not hurt, and easily fixed with training. They tend to prefer people company over dog company. I have regularly taken pups to puppy classes for socialization and am always amazed at their calm and good behaviour. Compared to most other pups, who tend to jump and bounce around, pei pups generally sit quietly and watch what is going on, focusing more on the people around them than the other pups. 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? Yes. It is very important that a new potential owner research this breed thoroughly as there are many potential health issues. A top quality, preferably natural diet is essential to bring out the best in the breed. Bearing in mind that the breed has come from a very small original gene pool, no lines can be considered totally free of problems. For the best chance of obtaining a healthy pei, it is vitally important that owners find a breeder with a reasonable amount of experience and knowledge of the pups ancestry. Having a good relationship with your dog’s breeder can help enormously with the management of minor health issues and save you a small fortune in vet fees. Often vets can over-diagnose issues with this breed, especially in the first 18mths while the dog is still growing, and have been known to recommend unnecessary and costly procedures. 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) Very few breeders in Australia health test at this time. Hips are not a huge problem for the breed, and eye issues are not ones which are tested for. Amyloidosis is a problem in the breed, but as yet no health testing is available. For the best chance of obtaining a healthy pei, it is vitally important that owners find a breeder with a reasonable amount of experience and reasonable knowledge of the pups ancestry.

I've always had a boy dog and never had this happen when it was not supposed to. Maybe my boys know when it is appropriate and when not???

One thing I have noticed alot with Staffords more than any other breed (probably due to their popularity) is them wandering the streets either alone or in pairs. Are they are generally considered "wanderers" and would responsible breeders only sell to those with suitable fencing? As a former Beagle breeder - I always insisted that any potential buyer was aware of the potential of wandering/escaping and had secure fencing.

I see that Eukanuba has brought out several Naturally Wild Fomulas with no fillers. Salmon, turkey, venison (NZ). Anybody tried the yet?

A lot of the good brands have a sensitive skin range. I like Pro Plan alot. I know there is a Eukanuba one also.

RIP Tyson. It seems you were well loved by all that met you, and some of us that didn't.

Just received this on the pei genetics/health list and can't see it posted here. Hopefully this will help many dogs. June 3, 2009 FDA approves cancer treatment for dogs The Food and Drug Administration has approved the first drug made specifically to treat cancer in dogs. Until now, all cancer drugs used in veterinary medicine were developed for use in humans and weren't specifically approved for animals. Federal law allows vets to administer cancer medicines and other human treatments under controlled circumstances. The new drug, Palladia, manufactured by Pfizer Animal Health Inc., has been approved to treat a type of cancer that accounts for about one in five cases of canine skin tumors. Canine cutaneous mast cell tumors — the cancer in question — can appear small and insignificant when dogs have them, but while some are easily removed, others can lead to life-threatening disease, according to the FDA. "This cancer drug approval for dogs is an important step forward for veterinary medicine," Bernadette Dunham, director of FDA's center for veterinary medicine, said in a statement Wednesday. "Prior to this approval, veterinarians had to rely on human oncology drugs, without knowledge of how safe or effective they would be for dogs," Dunham said. "Today's approval offers dog owners, in consultation with their veterinarian, an option for treatment of their dog's cancer." Palladia is a tyrosine kinase inhibitor that works by killing tumor cells and cutting off blood supply to the tumor. Common side effects include diarrhea, decrease or loss of appetite, lameness, weight loss and blood in the stool.

Ditto!

In my opinion no pup/dog should be fed wheetbix and milk is not at all necessary. I would find out what dry food the breeder is feeding and buy that initially then once pup has settled a bit, start to change over slowly to a better quality food. The chicken necks are an excellent addition to puppy's diet. They can be cut up or bashed to make them easier for puppy if necessary - you want to avoid him scoffing them whole if he has a tendancy to do so. 3 meals a day are preferable, so a good breakfast before school, lunch as soon as you get home and dinner later in the evening will be fine. If puppy is off his food for the first few days, that can be normal, so do not cave in and feed whatever it wants, as this will create a fussy eater. Just keep offering the food you want him to eat at schedule mealtimes, and remove it after 5 minutes if he does not eat it. He will soon learn to eat when and what is offered. Some people use crates, others use a laundry/small secure area. The idea is that puppy would prefer not to soil his own sleeping/eating area so will learn sooner to hold on. The newspaper is a place where he is allowed to go if he cannot hold on, until he has better control. I would not recommend leaving puppy outside alone initially as he get get into too much trouble while unsupervised. He would be much safer in his secure area whenever you are not able to watch him. Regarding papers, some states have differing rules, but as far as I am aware all pups from registered breeders must have papers, be they limited or main register. Perhaps you should contact your states canine association and check up on that - you will find contact numbers here: http://www.ankc.org.au/home/inner.asp?pageID=10&mainID=0

The discount stores usually have a great pet section with collars/leads/bowls/little coats/toys very cheaply from $2. Definately worth going to, especially as puppies grow fast so you don't want to spend alot on things they will grow out of. Don't cheap out on food though. Chicken necks from any supermarket make a brilliant addition to puppies diet and are cheap - can be chopped up or bashed with a mallet if puppy is not used to them. So is tinned fish (salmon/sardines/mackeral/tuna).

Yes Pandii, it is fine to desex at 8wks, but for me personally I would not do so. Being a show/breeding person, I prefer my dogs to reach maturity before desexing, as hormones to have a place in growth and development and I want my dogs to grow the best way than can. I am capable of keeping them safely, without accidents, so it is no issue for me. As you can see PB, everyone has different opinions on desexing, so you must take in all opinions, and your living situation and decide which is best. As for 2 dogs getting on, it depends highly on idividuals, regardless of sex. I've had 2 males here without incident, one being my entire stud dog, the other desexed. I've had females that get on well and some that don't. One of each is usually the best combination, but not always. I think a reasonable gap in age is the best idea, as 2 dogs of similar age are more likely to see each other as rivals. Re breed problems, I posted this earlier in the shar pei thread: All modern shar pei can trace their history back to a couple of original dogs sent to America to re-establish the breed, less than 30yrs ago. And 30 years is quite short time in genetics. So I do not believe any shar pei lines can be considered free of any of the diseases/conditions that plague the breed. Breeders who are more committed to the breed and are choosy about breeding from only healthy dogs with known parentage are more likely to produce healthier pups, than back yard breeders or puppy farmers who are just trying to make a quick buck and have cute puppies! These original dogs imported to America also carried the genes for both flowered and brushcoat pei, which is why they still pop up in litters today. I think this is the same for any breed (or crossbreed) of dog and their breed problems, unless a genetic test is found that can isolate and eliminate the problem.

Peibe baby, don't leave the forum as it is one of the best dog forums around. If you seriously are interested in breeding in the future, then you have already learnt some very valuable lessons, about the wrong and right ways to go about it. I would suggest you get little Simba sorted out first. Train him and enjoy him on his own for the next 12mths. It is imperative that you socialize him while young to prevent dominant behaviours. Shar Pei can be great at obedience- my boys has just started agility and he is so quick to learn anything new, even at the 4 yrs old. Have him desexed when he has reached adulthood (from about 8mths - would be my suggestion), so that if you choose to go ahead and purchase another pup (male or female) you will not have to worry about Simba/hormones/accidents. Any dog not needed for breeding should be desexed - it makes for a much happier pet all around. In the meantime, learn as much as you can about the breed. Join your states Canine Council and work towards attaining your breeder's prefix. Maybe go to some dog shows and meet some registered breeders. Hopefully you will find a breeder you can talk to and if you are happy with their dogs temperaments, style and general health then put your name down for a future female pup. A good pup is worth waiting for. Or, if after this time, you decide breeding is not for you, and as you have found with Simba, they are not in the least the easiest of breeds, then you may decide to choose a rescue pup/dog instead. If you click on my profile you will find my website details, where you will find many links that I have found very helpful over the years, including another very good shar pei forum and many informative breed specific websites.

What lovely pups LP. I think I like Polly the best, but they are all so pretty.

Congratulations Little Tails! Marnie sure is a lovely puppy. Make sure you are really good to your mum & dad now that they have given you your hearts desire!.

A shar pei could be a good match for your family. They are medium size, compact but still substantial, not overly energetic or destructive, good reliable family dogs if well socialized. Easiest breed to toilet train. In fact easy to train in general. Mine are all good with my cat (though she is good with them too) and my fairly new chihuahuas. None of mine bother to chase birds. In fact I just rehomed an adult female 3 yr old to a home of several cats and free ranging bantam chooks. She has settled beautifully, was timid of the chooks at first, but I am told is now fine with them. She is the 2nd shar pei this family have had - the first also being good with the cats and chooks, so she had a lot to live up to, but has done me proud. The breed does need a very good diet and research is essential before purchase, as is buying from a breeder you are comfortable with, but they can be truly great dogs.

Oops gremlins - double post!

When I have had a litter I usually buy a heap of soft toys (bunny/star) from the discount shops. I leave them in the bed for the pups to play and sleep on, then send one home with each pup. I do explain why they are a touch grotty - so the pup has something that is and smells familiar - and encourage them not to wash them at least for the first few days while pup settles.

Perhaps you could buy them a puppy training book that offers sound advice as a welcome puppy present! You could write on the inside front cover the contact numbers of local puppy training/dog obedience clubs in their local area. When they start having issues, they may actually decide to read it.