gsdog2

It's not a silly question. I also use treats, and I've found my GSD (6mths old) tends to leave the treat sitting in her mouth, rather than swallowing it straight away. This can be a problem if we're moving at fast pace, as she often drops it and wants to stop mid-excersise to find it again . I have used so many different types of treats and it doesn't make any difference. She works well for treats, it just seems to be a habit she has developed over the past six weeks or so. My worrry is that she may choke on it, instead of just dropping it!

That was my first thought too. However my 8yr GSD had the same symptoms about six weeks ago and after having x-rays it turns out he has severe arthritis (he has arthritis in his elbows, but he had not shown any signs of knee problems previously). I urge you to go to the vet ASAP as there were a couple of nasties the vet was also looking for with my boy.

I agree. And as I said before I do let mine out at 6.00am every week day morning, so it's not 8.00am every day. And as the weather gets colder and the toads disappear for the winter she will have free access to the back yard again

Never seen a toad in the house yet Shellectra. However we have extremely shiny tiles that are not safe for three large dogs!

So, as I go to bed at 9.00 to 9.30 you're suggesting I set the alarm for 5.oo am? I can't imagine there are too many dog owners who do that by choice. Take a look at some of the other threads, there are plenty of DOLers looking for advice on how to change their dogs toilet habits - not only poodle proud. If I had the choice I would not crate her at 6.00 however that's when the toads come out, and she has a huge interest in them, so I find this is the safest option .

My pup (GSD female) is just on five months and apart from the first couple of nights when we brought her home (8wks) she has always slept through. I crate her at 6.30 (I have to due to cane toads) and let her toilet around 9.00 then back to her crate until 6.00 am- or 8.00 am on weekends. Your pup should be able to last through the night at her age . Do you use a crate? I really feel that the use of the crate is what made the night-time toileting so successful with my pup. By the way there is always water available in her crate too.

Hi xJasperx, Just wondering how you got on at the vet? I've got a pup that's also had ongoing "scratching" problems - the vet originally told me it was Puppy Pyoderma but has now said it's a contact allergy.

As previously stated a good idea would be to go and watch a trial before entering one. Another suggestion is to have a look on You Tube, there's a few good ones there. I gather you're entering CCD so this is a good place to start :-

That's a great summary Reddii . I googled "working dog" in Wikipedia and felt the description there did not cover all working dogs. The only addition I would add to your summary is that a working dog not only helps an owner in "deriving a living", but may also "assist the owner in day-to-day living".

You must own the only "fussy" Golden Retriever on earth. Mine loves everything (including things that aren't meant to be eaten ) therefore it was very easy to teach him drop using the lure method.

Saw the photo bobchic It might look funny but you need to be careful - those tiny beads are easily inhaled. Sorry to be a party pooper but it always scares me when I see photo's with either a dog or child sitting in the middle of the beanbag beans as it can be quite dangerous. And you're right I'm really sorry to have hijacked your thread regarding the lovely Mr Fluffy - I won't do it again

There you go again - assuming One last try - I did step forward to stop him, and as I did so he released her. It's a privately run class and I was not going to make a scene in front of the rest of the class (they could see my reaction anyway). I have changed my training days as I don't agree with this particular persons training methods. PPS thanks for you input

I give up It's very hard to reason with someone who makes so many assumptions (we all know what happens when you do that ). You have made a number of wrong assumptions about myself, my dog and where I train, but I doubt I'll ever convince you otherwise. We'll just have to agree to disagree.

Thank you PPS - that's exactly what I've been trying say . Being four months old my pup has just received her Parvo vaccination (without any drama) The vet (6ft 4ins male) actually commented on her easy-going nature. As I said before, while we talked she went to sleep on the examination table . That's what I call a "positive" experience for my pup and it will also pay rewards next time we visit.

I have to say your argument doesn't make sense either . My question was:- "Can you tell me why it's so important that my pup accept a total stranger dragging her suddenly by the collar to the ground, and when she struggles he puts both hands across her belly and forces her to lay flat" - where is the value in that? I hardly think there would be too many dog owners happy to see their dogs treated this way (by someone who has never handled their dog before). Rebanne it's the first and last time it will happen - my only excuse is that it happened so quickly I didn't have time to object.

Not sure what you mean here - my pup is constantly handled . I found the following here:- http://bigheartrescue.com/ppcesarandiandunbar.htm "Rather than leash pops, alpha rollovers, and finger jabs, Dunbar advocates a trusting and respectful relationship, treating dogs as companions and family members as opposed to a lesser species requiring physical dominance. "Ian carried the torch for lure-and-reward training," says Sue Sternberg, founder and owner of Rondout Valley Animals for Adoption"

Midol I'll answer your question with a question. Can you tell me why it's so important that my pup accept a total stranger dragging her suddenly by the collar to the ground, and when she struggles he puts both hands across her belly and forces her to lay flat when:- *She allows me to roll her onto her back and stays in that position for as long as I'm willing to stay there (she would sleep in that position in you waited long enough ) *She allows my 21 yr old son to carry her in that same position (on her back, feet up) around the workshop without any fear *She allows the vet to manipulate her hips without any objections. (Having worked in a vet surgery for a number of years I'm not quite sure what you think vets get up to behind closed doors - they're very aware of a dogs pain level and they're certainly not going to shove them to the ground and hold them there). In other words when I place her in "any" position she accepts it, however I don't see the need to do it in quite the same way this trainer chose to do it. By the way I question your comment of dominance I think for certain trainers it is the reason they do it.

Without knowing any more than what I've told you Midol you are very quick to judge my GSD . At the previous classes my pup attended the puppies were regularly swapped with other puppy owners to get them used to being handled by strangers (to me this is an extremely important part of the socialisation in puppy classes). I take her to work (mechanical repair workshop) and both staff and customers handle her on a daily basis (I actively encourage this ), I take her to the vet and she falls asleep on the examination table -this is hardly a dog prone to throwing "tanty's". I am guilty of teaching my pup using the lure method as it suits her (as I have previously said I have no objection to other methods but this works for my pup). I also have a large male GSD and it suited him too. Why would I force her when she works so well using this method I want a pup that's keen to work (there's that word!!!) for me, not be fearful of being forced when it isn't necessary.

My pup is now 16 wks and I have taught her to drop and sit by luring her into position (she caught on quickly using this method ). She is now pretty solid in the drop position and will stay down with me standing beside her. At training last week the trainer was showing the class how to get their pup to drop and used mine as a demo (never again ). He showed the class the forced method, which my pup wasn't used to, and when she fought him he held her down until she cried. He released her just as I walked towards him to grab her off him, and not wanting to cause a scene in front of the class I left it at that. I just wish people were given the option of luring first and if that doesn't work by all means explore other methods that will work for your particular dog - including forcing if that's what works, but don't start with that method!

I agree with your list of working dogs, although I'm not sure I would include greyhound racing. I know nothing about greyhound racing, however there are other "dog sports" that include dogs chasing objects aren't there? Just because there's money involved shouldn't make any difference as to whether a dog is "working" or not.

And before you remove the lead make sure you have given the "stay" command, or like mine, your dog may think it's all over and follow the lead - and steward - out of the ring :rolleyes: .

Oh no Carlibud, not again This is too much heartbreak in less than a year. Buddy was a beautiful boy and it seems he had the nature to match. You gave him such a wonderful life after starting out as a guard dog - I'm sure he loved every minute of his time with you and your family. RIP Buddy

I can't believe you haven't had any other replies either - although, I'm pretty sure there's already heaps on crate training here. "Have you done this with all of your pups?" I did the same with my Goldie and had the same success. I put my other pups in the garage at night when they first came home and they always cried for the first few nights, which I found very hard to deal with. "Did keeping the pup in the bedroom with you and leaving the others in the garrage put your other dogs nose out of joint?" No. I always put them to bed in the crate/garage first and then brought her into the house, and in the morning I always let her out first (I didn't want them to see her coming into the house). "I'm trying to twist my hubbies arm into letting him stay with us during the night for at least a few weeks". I would definately recommend this. I only had mine in the bedroom for 3 weeks and now she's sleeping in a large crate in the garage without any barking/crying (or toilet mistakes ) Good luck with your new pup and hopefully the crate training

Give her a designated area (a purpose built sandpit) and encourage her to dig there. Bury her toys, and then make a game with her of finding them again. I've had a sandpit for my dogs for the last 10 years and since then I've never had problems with any of my dogs digging up the yard . At the moment I have a 7yr old GSD, a 3yr old Goldie and a 3mth old GSD pup and all three of them use the sandpit.

Forgot to mention - now she's in the larger crate she has a large water container which I clip to the crate to prevent her knocking it over.