ashaflynn

Sydney oncologist, lecturer and surgeon, Dr Nicolas Oddone so badly beat his girlfriend's Papillion, Prinni, he left her with 14 rob fractures, a partially collapsed lung, liver damage and massive internal bleeding! http://http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/nsw/dr-nicolas-oddone-took-his-rage-out-on-his-girlfriends-tiny-dog/story-fni0cx12-1227031259406 This man is a well respected Doctor working in a very successful practice! What happened to his "Do no harm" oath? I hope a lot of his peers, colleagues and patients have a clearer insight into just what kind of man he obviously is! No doubt he'll be given a slap on the wrist and a fine from the court!

In this scenario- too many ifs buts and maybes. Presuming the pup left the breeder at 8-9 weeks. The certification at 8 weeks for travel, is basically, the dog is in good physical condition not suffering from an infection, dehydration, has good weight or any other similar ailments. Not much more you can really certify at that age, unless something is obvious. I would suspect any trauma caused by the travel would be evident upon arrival at the new home of within the coming days/week upon arrival. There are at least one if not two more vet visits for vaccinations at 12 and 16 weeks. Going on a "normal scale". Possibly another vet visit at 6 months or so for desexing. Then the 12 month vaccination. So my first question was why was it not picked up by the owner/vet during one of these visits. Depends on what the condition is too? If it is something like hip/elbow or shoulder displacia, it can be in all breeds large or small. There can be a hereditary predisposal to the condition, or it can also be caused from environmental factors such as bad diet, too much stress on joints at a young age, injury or a combination of everything. OCD of the shoulder commonly is seen around 8-9 months. Many vets also like to quickly say HD as soon as they find out the dog is pedigree. If this is the case, I would get a second opinion from a trusted vet. Sometimes I have seen OCD/ED/HD claimed too easily by some vets or so called vet specialists when it is soft tissue injury from a young dog being stupid and has just strained a muscle or tendon and not HD. ( I had OCD claimed by a so called vet specialist on a bitch I bought who had her foot caught in a fence. A second and third opinion by different specialists and some more tests showed only soft tissue damage. That bitch is now 7 years old and does not have OCD) the first vet specialist is know to love diagnosing OCD in pedigree dogs. Something that is age or maturity related, you would not know until the dog reached that point. No way you could tell in an 8-12 week old pup. Dogs with perfect hip scores can produce hip displastic pups. Dogs bred with high hips scores do run a higher risk of producing pups with high hip scores, but they can also produce offspring with low hip scores. Sporting dogs who start intensive training early can get elbow/hip displacia by being put into work too early and severely before they finish growing. Dogs who live in high rise houses and always jump the bottom steps and turn sharply are a higher risk of injury than a dog who lives in a house without steps. If it is something rare in the breed, and not commonly seen, it is just bad luck. Especially if there is no health test or preventative to attempt to breed against that trait from showing. I would not hold the breeder at fault. If it is something common in the breed and there are tests and they chose to breed without testing for it, then certainly I would hold the breeder responsible. I would also partly hold the puppy buyer responsible if they knew about the potential condition/risk and chose to go ahead with the purchase knowing the parents were tested. ( I would also expect puppy buyer to research their potential breed thorough before buying a pup, and I would also expect the breeder to inform puppy buyers the potential breed specific problems of that breed, whether found in their lines or not). Without more specifics of what the breed or condition is, how can you expect anyone to really answer your question?

'Dressing up' for a show was originally done as dog showing or the art of the 'dog fancy' was a hobby and pastime for the more 'affluent' upper class members of society way back when. This was how they dressed in the 'elite' pastime they indulged in. To become a well known and respected judge in those days and for many years to come took many, many years of being in a breed/s and being respected as an 'expert' in your field. These doyens of the breeds were much respected in the dog world and often paved the way for many breeds and were instrumental in ensuring the continuation of many of the breeds we have today. Dog showing was a special thing and you dressed for the occasion! Since that time - dressing up in the ring has simply been the done thing and is done as a mark of respect for the judge and for the fancy of showing and breeding as a whole. It is a small sign of respect to the institution of the fancy which has seen many hundreds of years and dedication poured into it by many people over time and a nod to the magnificent dogs of the past and the history of these dogs that formed the foundations of many of the dogs of today. As we all know times change and some of these old traditions get forgotten, or deemed as not necessary anymore and get lost along the way. I for one am pleased that people still dress up for the ring. I don't care if they're only doing it because everyone else is. I don't care if they've forgotten it's about showing respect. I also don't care if they wear runners with a skirt or they want to wear a fluro pink suit that can be seen from space ..... as long as they're not slopping about a ring in trackies or jeans with holes in them! Dog showing isn't glamourous - there's poo, drool, copious amounts of dog hair etc. We get up at ridiculous hours to travel to shows - usually after spending most of the night before grooming dogs, packing supplies etc. The fact that the time is also taken to take a suit and dress up in it - even if it's 30 degrees and you're covered in flies or it's hailing and you're ankle deep in mud shows a special kind of dedication to our hobby! Good on us all I say!

YAY Thank you Aussie3!!! I think this is the first time I've heard someone here in Australia actually say this!! As a Pom, who used to have Rottweiler I gave up pronouncing it correctly (as in with a v instead of the w) here as everyone always looked at me like I'd lost my mind! I have also refused point blank to pronounce it with a W so just resorted to calling them Rotty's!

Young puppies and babies should not be interacting on a one on one basis at all! Your pup is too young to know what is or is not acceptable and is going to do exactly what young pups do with their litter mates! Have you ever seen exactly how rough and agressive litter mates get with each other? It's how they learn to be dogs and they use their teeth, their nails, their body weight .... it's all about interacting in a pack and learning their place in the pack. It's also about trying to be the boss of the litter mates. Your baby is being put at risk by having a young puppy allowed to interact with it! I am not having a go at you but this is a very dangerous practice and potentially volatile situation. Your puppy will be learning that it is equal, if not superior, to your baby by being able to treat your baby as a littermate. You need to stop the interaction now! Pup and baby are to be seperate at all times. Pup is not allowed to interact with the baby - there's no need for either of them to interact with each other at this stage anyway ... they are not going to be interesting to each other at these young ages. Your pup will accept the baby as a member of the household because the baby is always there - but the pup will respect the baby because it's not allowed to jump all over it and do whatever it likes. Once your pup is older you can introduce supervised, calm interactions which teach the pup how to behave around the child but that puppy must always respect the baby as a higher pack member - or you will have problems. Seperation is the only way to achieve this respect at this age! Babies and young puppies are never a good mix!

Are you 2 1/2 hours away from a vet? or just 2 1/2 hours away from the vet that did the AI? If you have a vet near you I would be opting for giving her the chance to go into labour but also having a closer vet on standby in case required. I would also be getting an Xray done the week she is due to try and guage a rough idea on the size of the pup - if it looks normal size then no reason why she shouldn't be given the opportunity to try and have a natural whelp - especially as she is an experienced bitch. I have a girl that has had three litters and each one was a singleton litter. She has managed to have normal problem free whelps with each of them but I did always have a vet on standby and made sure an Xray was done to check the size. I understand the reasoning behind your vet wanting her to have the elective but I think there is a tendency to step in and intervene too early and sometimes unecessarily in these things. Mother nature is a wonderful and amazing thing but yes, there is always a risk - there is also always a risk with surgery too!

i also did this.. Also i was adding dry parsly flakes to her meals Oh yes Team Snag! I forgot about the parsley flakes ! I had a girl recently that had an especially bad phantom with her first season and she produced a good quantity of milk too! Had never had to worry about phantoms as such before this as they were never all that bad but decided to do "the lot" with this girl as her flabby boobs in the ring was really not an attractive look! Not sure whether the parsley and the vinegar actually did the trick or not but she did go back to normal within a couple of weeks - could have been just the natural process of things or they really did help .... but it doesn't hurt to try it!

The old cider treatment has been around for ages and is definitely worth doing - use apple cider vinegar. Also, as mentioned, cutting back on her food and upping the exercise is great. The other thing that helps, especially with very sooky maternal girls, is to not make a fuss about the whole thing. Treat her as per normal and if she starts to try and nest with stuffed toys etc etc - don't let her do it. It will only prolong the phantom and exaccerbate the whole process. Just treat her as normal - no fussing about the phantom, up the exercise, cut back on the food and liberally swab with the vinegar at every opportunity. You can't prevent a phantom but you can at least try and shorten its duration and severity. An absolutely no reason why you can't show her - even with puffy boobs! :laugh: Good Luck!

Definitely not what i was eluding to, you do get some correct coated puffs and some terrier coated puffs yes, should the terrier coats be shown? No. They are incorrect, thats why we have a standard. I have mixed feelings about whether they should be bred with also. Our first Crested was a terrier coat powderpuff and really i wished someone had of pulled us aside and said 'listen that dog isnt going to grow a coat' We did have some remarks like 'gee who has been scruffing him up?' He had a lovely temperament, was a great dog to show, behaved well in the ring and really showed his butt off, but the coat did never grow and we pet homed him. This was after id spent $300 on grooming products because i thought i was grooming him wrong. It wasnt until we had bought a powderpuff from different bloodlines that i realised that they had totally different coats as the second dog had the correct veil and undercoat and when matured it reached the ground. Those with whispy single coats that are patchy, may be quite bald in some areas are hairy hairless. Im not sure of the exhibitors frame of mind whether they think the dogs coat is going to get thicker or they dont believe they could have a hairless so hairy. Are these the ones that look like "shaved Puffs"? You know with quite alot of hair on their feet, tails, heads and ears? No - a lot of hairless cresteds have plenty of hair on their head, feet and tails and are also naturally hairless on their body. On the other hand .... a lot of cresteds that do have a lot of hair on head, feet and tails are what we call 'hairy hairless' or 'extremely hairy hairless' depending on the amount of body hair they have. It's a little like people and the amount of hair they possess ... some people are naturally quite hairless and others not. Even the extremely hairy ones are genetically a hairless and will produce hairless pups. A powderpuff cannot. Basically what Entourage was saying above is if you see a Crested that looks like it has a full coat i.e. Powderpuff but the coat is patchy, wispy and sometimes extremely thin and mangey looking this is more than likely an extremely hairy hairless that has not been clipped/shaved off and just left eau natural! To confuse matters even more ... there are a lot of puffs out there that do not have the correct coat and can have a messy looking terrier type coat. It never grows the length properly, can be a bit wiry or coarse and is more pouffy looking. This is an INCORRECT Powderpuff Coat not a hairy hairless. I have not heard or seen anyone here in Vic shaving off a powderpuff to look like a hairless for the ring (not to say this hasn't happened but if it has I don't know about it)however a lot of pet people who buy a puff will often have them clipped into the hairless cut, leaving only a very short amount of coat on the body. I see nothing wrong with this if they are a pet only and obviously not being shown as such. As mentioned previously the hairless and puff can often be identified by their teeth as the hairless have competely different dentitition - the puff's have a normal dog mouth. That being said though .... there have also been a few hairless cresteds with normal mouths - this breed is a doozy I'm telling you! At birth a hairless and a puff are plainly obvious! The hairless are born naked - the puffs have a complete covering of hair. As the hairless get older (usually by two weeks old) you will find them sprouting some body hair - much to our horror normally as we are all trying to breed true hairless with good cresting!!! It never, ever goes the other way (amazingly I have heard people say this) that as they get older they lose the hair!! Pffft!

I have heard for breeding purposes that the puffs are important and vital to keep the hair coming through at all on the hairless, so im not really sure what the answer is. But id be curious to see what everyone thought. After all you would never see two coat types allowed in many other breeds, unless in fact they are split i.e short and long coated chi's/ smooth and rough collies, etc yet the cresteds to have two and from what entourage says maybe more coat types allowable in the show ring. I myself have seen the difference in the coat types of the puffs from thick and covering the whole of the body with veil, to splotchy and thin with small blotches of skin still hairless. So, I would be interested how the differing coats can all be considered 'correct' and at a genetic level how the hairless and the puffs can be shown as one breed, if in fact they are genetically the same. This is not correct and I don't think what Entourage was eluding to. The coat type allowable for the ring - or for the breed for that matter - is "In Powder Puffs coat consists of an undercoat with soft veil of long hair, veil coat a feature" This is what the coat of a Powderpuff should be but unfortunately many do not possess the correct coat type and as such will not be shown or if they are are overlooked as it is not correct for the standard. The reference to splotchy thin coats with skin visible would be unclipped/shaved off hairy hairlesses - not puffs. It has also been a problem in the past that the coat care for the Puff's was not really all that up to scratch - due to them not being awarded in the ring against the hairless as much and also lack of knowledge. Puff owners now take great care of their correct coats to maintain the 'veil'. It is however an awful lot of work to maintain a ground length coat in a show dog - particularly if you're not winning much against the hairless. Catch 22 really - and you've got to be dedicated to the breed to keep them in the ring and in front of the judges.

In my opinion the hairless and puffs should be shown together - we just need judges to be more informed about the breed and judge a powderpuff correctly. Any good judge will be able to FEEL what they can't see! Believe me ... there have been and still are some amazing examples of the Chinese Crested breed in Powderpuff form - structurally correct, sound and often with better temperaments than the hairless (the puffs always seem to be a lot more laid back than the hairless) It is incorrect that there 'must' be puffs in a pedigree - the fact is there 'will' always be puffs in a pedigree as it is the powderpuff gene which allows the hairless to survive. The hairless gene is a lethal dominant gene. The hairless possess one hairless gene and one powderpuff gene. The powderpuff only possesses the powderpuff gene. If a puppy embryo inherits two sets of the hairless lethal gene they are generally reabsorbed and never whelped. If on the rate occasion they are whelped they are usually so severly deformed or with such serious problems they will not survive. A puff to puff mating will only produce puffs in a litter but a hairless to hairless will produce both in a litter as will a hairless to puff. There is a misconception that puffs must be used in breeding programs to ensure some hair - however this is incorrect as it is the hairless gene ONLY that dicates the amount of hair or lack of a puppy inherits - the powderpuff gene gives powderpuffs only - not hairy hairless. It does seem that the inclusion of puffs in a breeding program improves the overall soundness and conformation of the hairless type - which makes sense considering the lethal side of the hairless gene - a lot of today's hairless are a lot more structurally sound than the old types of thirty odd years ago. As a crested breeder and exhibitor who has both types we fought a long uphill battle to get our Puff boy titled and he is absolutely magnificent. In fact the won Best in Show at the 2010 Vic Crested show and RUBOB at the Melb Royal - but boy was it disheartening to see him get beaten over an over again simply because he was a puff. We knew it was going to be difficult but I think even we were surprised just how overlooked the puffs are. However - I think seperating them for showing will only make the problem worse as they would still have to go head to head for Best of Breed - as they are the same breed. Judges will no longer have to consider them against the hairless and compare movement, structure etc until the last part of the process - and if a puff can't win their class over a hairless at present - even if conformation wise they're better how on earth are they going to win BOB? They will be seen as a lesser type of Crested in my opinion and some judges won't take them seriously. Obviously I have come across a number of judges that are very familiar with the Cresteds and some that do actually appreciate the Puff and judge them as they should - however unfortunately they are few and far between.

Ok ... should work now!

I came across this website which is inviting people to come up with 'revolutionary' ideas to create a better world for pets. I have created a post which reads "ANKC registered breeders - best bet for a new pet" in the hope of spreading the word that buying from breeders should be the way to purchase puppies. Don't know that it will have all that much impact but figure we need to get the word out to the general population any way we can at the moment. So if you check out the site and feel the need to vote please do. There are some good posts on there already concerning banning pets in pet shops etc and you can vote for a number of different ones - lets get our voices heard in any way possible. Hopefully the link below will work: http://www.pawclub.com.au/promotions/joinourrevolution/ Edited to change link. I have no idea how to actually put the post I created on the link but if you click on the most recent button you'll find it - the words are on a yellow background board and the pic is of a white Chinese Crested Powderpuff - to make it easier to find.

I came across this website which is inviting people to come up with 'revolutionary' ideas to create a better world for pets. I have created a post which reads "ANKC registered breeders - best bet for a new pet" in the hope of spreading the word that buying from breeders should be the way to purchase puppies. Don't know that it will have all that much impact but figure we need to get the word out to the general population any way we can at the moment. So if you check out the site and feel the need to vote please do. There are some good posts on there already concerning banning pets in pet shops etc and you can vote for a number of different ones - lets get our voices heard in any way possible. Hopefully the link below will work: http://www.pawclub.com.au/promotions/joinourrevolution/ Edited to make link work. I have no idea how to actually put the post I created on the link but if you hit the most recent button you'll find it - the words are on a yellow background board and there is a pic of a white Chinese Crested Powderpuff - to make it easier to find.